Category: Urban Survival (Page 1 of 2)
In Australia all the larger food storage whole sealers are in the city. These transport to the country areas. Id rather be in the city to access the whare houses.
I luv this channel there are only half a dozen channels I go out of my way to watch anymore.
Ive been stripping down all my camping gear and going back through it and came across the question of which stove do I use for a Go Bag.I still have to purchase from the list below the grills and the firebox.
It really came down to primarily the time of year. No open flames in summer ! Weight and fuel type. How much fuel did I want to carry and how heavy are the stoves.
The esbit can sit in my bag for years and I dont have to worry about alcohol leaking out of a container but is only good fora three day pack for the amount of tabs per weight to carry.
The pocket rocket Ive now used for 2 years and am happy with it and the bottle wont leak over time and would be the better choice for hot weather when open fires are restricted.
For open fires when fuel is not available or when no longer in non-permissive environments, Id like to try the grills out.Very light weight and nothing can break on them.
What I don’t like about the small Titanium stoves are having to put them together and I have already lost one of the cross strut pieces. They would be much better hinged.
Another consideration are the foods your carrying. Do they even require cooking or heating.Here the time of year also comes into play. winter requires hot food and more calories.
Esbit
Solo
Alton Ti Twig
MSR Pocket Rocket
Firebox
Alton Goods Ti Grill
Pathfinder Ti Grill
The more I look at the Firebox stoves the more Id like to try one.
https://www.survivalsupplies.com.au/pathfinder-titanium-grill-with-pouch-tigrill
https://www.survivalsupplies.com.au/solo-stove-lite-pot-900-combo
https://www.survivalsupplies.com.au/firebox-stove-g2-stainless-steel-ss-deluxe-combo-kit
(Keep it Legal, join Lock Sport Australia.)
I developed an interest in lock picking when I worked in the security industry however i found there were much easier ways of breaking in than standing there picking a lock. I was going to start my own business at one stage helping people on a residential level to prevent break-ins many years ago.
However with lock sport starting up withn Australia the last few years and being on a walking frame for a time Ive been looking back into it as a hobby. Below is a list of equipment that I have started acquiring.
Sparrows Ranger set
6 x Picks with thermal handles
1 x Level 1 Wrenches
1 x Padlock shim set
1 x Wafer keys
1 x SHANK
1 x Mini Jim
Australian bump key set small
1 x Lockwood LW4
1 x Lockwood LW4R
1 x Gainsborough TE2
Sparrows traveller hooks
Southord auto jigglers
Sparrows coffin keys
Sparrows quick shims
Sparrow mantis
handcuff shims
Sparrows master switch
Sparrows shank
Sparrows 3 in 1 clear practice lock spool, standard and serrated
Brockhage practice padlock
Practice handcuff
Lishi LW5 2 in 1 6 pin and spacer
Youtube channels i like. the modern rouge, lock noob, lock picking lawyer, its tactical, deviant oliam, dark arts lock picking.
Keep an eye out at DALP for up coming training courses.
Lock bypassing
Pick every sort of lock
lock picks
lishi LW5
Australian Tool Sources
This is an article I put together a while ago, a long while ago while trying to learn about building glocks and aftermarket parts. Finally have all the components and built one gun based on a G22 40cal and then sold it haf way through . It worked out cheaper to purchase a Zev. Everything done out of the factory. I had started to get back into pistol shooting while still on oxygen and gave this to one of the instructors whom was an ex federal police instructor. He had never seen anything like it and I was told that it had more information than in the glock Armourers course.. i no longer shoot. Due to state laws I travel around too much to keep up with storage regulations. I havent checked links but have left them there for quoting sources of information.
Building a Glock Research
I was undecided on whether to start and do a build on a custom STI tactical 4.15 with an extended 5 inch barrel to be of legal length in oz or buy a Glock and came across the following picture on the m4carbine forum, which sort of settled the choice for me. That and finding several Australian importers of glock parts, that hadn’t been available to me in the past making buying the accessories and parts much easier than importing from overseas due to current import restrictions. It also allowed me to do most of the work myself, unlike working on a STI 2011. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95628
The following link describes how to break the trigger down into its separate components, in order to understand how modifying each one can change the characteristics of the trigger and gun as a whole. http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/01/01/glock-setup-tips/
There are three main components to the Glock trigger action that determine pull weight: the connector, firing pin spring, and trigger spring. I will be discussing these along with barrel choices, guide rod recoil springs, guide rod weight and combinations of these. The following information is all I could find to learn about building a Glock, since I had never owned one before.
Firstly Guide Rods;
To start with in Glocks guide rods have absolutely no effect on the accuracy of your pistol. In a standard 1911 the guide rod, being so short, only guides the spring at the end of the rearward action. This allows the spring to move from side to side in the frame channel and could allow interference. The full length guide rod forces the spring to stay centered and slide along the guide rod reducing the interference. Ti is worthless for guide rods, you want heavier not lighter. Steel is only slightly heavier but if you are really in tune with your gun you can feel a subtle difference in the handling. Tungsten is much heavier than steel and makes a significant difference.
Below are some guiderod weights. Aftermarket rods are all same brand. Weights do not include the recoil spring.
Stock 17 2.04 grams = 0.071 ounce
Captured Stainless 17 18.3 gr = 0.645 oz
Cap Tungsten 17 34.18 gr = 1.206 oz
Non-cap Tungsten 34 44.56 gr = 1.572 oz
When compared to stock the tungsten is significantly heavier. When compared to stainless the tungsten is almost double the weight. Here is where it gets real interesting. An empty G17 weighs 625 grams. Adding a captured tungsten rod increases the total weight of the gun by more than 5% and in a key location. An empty g34 weighs in at 650 grams. With an extended tungsten rod you are increasing the total weight by almost 7%.
Something that weighs less than 2 ounces may not seems like much but it does make a significant difference in recovery from recoil.
My personal view
I’m using a model 22 in 40cal and converting it to a 9mm. This will bring up the barrel wall thickness and also the front weight of the firearm. I am therefore sticking to a steel guide rod. If I were using a stock thickness competition barrel I would then use a Tungsten rod.
Captured Vs. Non-Captured;
I personally use non captured rods. It is easier to swap out springs and with a little practice it is not any harder to assemble your pistol. There is no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either, it’s just personal preference. If using a single load, such as when reloading a captured system is easier to install when cleaning. It’s similar to a bolt with a nut on the end that keeps the spring under tension. The advantage of non-captured is when working up loads or using more than one type of factory load and wanting to tune the firearm to the load being used. I generally use three different loads. A 147 grain subsonic at 980fps, my usual load is a Hornady steel match 125 grain running at 1100fps that cost $280 per 500 and ex-military FMJ plus P loads which cost $350 per 1000 rounds. An uncaptured spring set up allows me to change them out using a $12 spring, whereas with a captured system you have to replace the entire guide rod and spring.
Barrels;
KKM vs. Stormlake vs. Lonewolf. There are three links below comparing the three brands. From what I can tell there isn’t that much difference. If I were to choose a standard wall thickness match grade barrel, to fit in a standard slide assembly 9mm to 9mm, without opting to use a conversion/bull barrel 40smith to 9mm luger. I would probably choose a KKM due to the type manufacture, using button rifling.
Button rifling is a process, in which a Titanium Nitride coated Carbide button is pulled under pressure to displace metal to produce a rifled barrel. This process is very expensive but produces a better finished size, surface finish, and surface hardness as well as maintains a more uniform rate of twist than any other rifling process. Each button can be used to produce thousands a barrels before wearing undersized. This allows us to maintain the highest level of quality control.
That’s if I wanted to wait 6 months for the import process to occur in this country and could be bothered filling out B709 forms. If choosing a bull barrel style conversion it would be between a Stormlake and a Lonewolf as KKM don’t make a conversion barrel. The same import process would be required for the Stormlake. Lonewolf have an importer listed below. Hence the lonewolf is my choice.
Note: I have been told that KKM barrels are very tight and some require minor fitting.
Trigger Springs;
The NY trigger are a coil spring within a frame as opposed to factory coil spring, the modules alter the internal geometry and relationship of the trigger linkage. You now have a spring pushing straight up on the back of the cruciform, instead of applying pressure at an angle. The result is a smooth trigger pull and a clean break, with a lightning-fast reset.
http://www.glockmeister.com/TriggerSpringInstallation.asp
Dawson are just reselling the Glock Triggers kit. It removes pre-travel and gives a nice trigger: reduced travel and light pull, not for use on anything but a competition gun. I would offer one word of caution: you need to be very careful about setting the over travel stop and make sure that it does not creep out of adjustment, by using a little blue Loctite.
The Ghost Rocket is not a trigger kit, it is just a connector with a fixed over travel stop that needs to be fitted to an individual gun by filing. It works well, but it is not a complete trigger kit.
NOTE; If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or connector in this gun, it will feel terrible. Any part that is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a reliable evaluation can be made.
Guide Rod/Recoil Springs;
Effects of a lighter spring: Recoil is transferred to the shooter in a shorter duration of time because the slide is moving at a higher velocity. This is often perceived as less recoil and reduced muzzle flip. With a lighter spring the shooter also has less force to counteract, or you don’t have to work as hard. This usually reduces muzzle flip. Less force to counteract reduces the odds of producing a limp wrist style jam. A lighter spring will result is reduced muzzle dip when the slide closes keeping sights steadier and on target for a faster follow-up shot. Light springs are particularly helpful to smaller shooters like children, women or anyone else having trouble keeping their wrists locked.
Effects of a Heavier spring: Recoil is transferred to the shooter over a longer duration of time due to lower slide velocities. Slower slides equal a longer recovery time for the shooter. The shooter does more work, as there is more force to counteract. This often causes and increase in muzzle flip. The chances of a limp wrist style jam are increased, as there is more force working to unlock your wrists. The chance of the slide short stroking and causing a feed jam is increased. Increased muzzle dip when the slide closes for a slower follow-up shot.
Brass Ejection: It does not matter how far away it lands or if it is in a neat pile. You are there to shoot not to pick up brass.
Frame Battering: A non-issue for Glock pistols. It falls under the category of Internet Nonsense along with the idea that light springs cause kabooms and broken parts.
Spring Selection and Testing: There is no magic weight that is perfect for all shooters, loads and guns. Each shooter must evaluate and test various weights to determine what is best for their application. For rough tuning try different standard weights. For fine-tuning, take a spring slightly heavier than you prefer and trim it until it is just right, this is a trial and error process.
NOTE; MATCH THE SPRING TO THE LOAD.
If trimming springs. Start by removing 1 coil at a time and then check for full travel. Trim until the slide has full travel then check for proper lockup. You can go too light: The firing pin spring can overpower an old or too light recoil spring causing the slide to pull slightly out of battery as you pull the trigger resulting in a light primer strike. If you have off center light primer strike this is probably the cause. Feeding jams; The slide can be so fast that the mag spring cannot keep up.
By using 11 pound recoil springs should greatly reduce or eliminate the need for cutting 13s and should work great in the 9mm guns and the compacts.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Factory recoil spring ratings above are for current production models with captive factory recoil spring systems which are silver/gray in color. Previous captive factory recoil assemblies for the 17, 17L, 20, 21 & 22 had recoil springs rated at 16 pounds. Earlier non-captive models of the 17, 17L and 19 had factory recoil springs rated at 19 pounds. Not for use in Generation 4 pistols.
•Reduced Power…: 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 & 16 Lb.
•Factory Standard.: 17 Lb.
•Extra Power………: 19, 20, 22 & 24 Lb.
Recommend starting springs weights:
G17 13lb
G19 13lb
G20 15lb
G21 13lb
G22 15lb
G23 13-15lb
G24 13lb
G31 15lb
G32 13-15lb
G34 13lb
G35 15lb
Spring setups:
G34 Production 13lb minus 4 coils
G35 Limited 15lb minus 3 coils
G17 Open 13lb minus 5 coils
G19C Carry 13lb minus 6 coils
Choosing Spring Weight. This part is not as simple. Selecting the proper weight spring is part of the weapon tuning and will depend on what your end goal is to be. The standard weight spring, in the case of Glock 34, of 17 pounds is used to match the average slide performance with industry standard loaded ammunition. This is to ensure maximum reliability for a weapon right out of the box. In your tuning, if you prefer a snappy slide that opens and closes more quickly, you would want to go with a heavier spring and ammunition that has a lighter weight bullet, such as 115gr. You want to make sure you don’t go too heavy on the spring or it could prevent the slide from going all the way to the rear. This would not allow for proper empty case ejection or failing to strip the next round from the magazine. If you would like a slide that is a bit slower and has more of a push feel then a snap, you would go with a lighter weight spring and a heavier bullet, such as the 147gr. Because of the added weight, the round is a little slowing in getting moving and this produces the push feel. Again, don’t go too light on the spring as this will allow the slide to hit the slide stop too hard and cause damage. For a Glock, a good test is to make sure the weapon is not loaded, pull the trigger and hold it. Point the barrel straight up and pull the slide all the way to the rear. Do not release the slide but slowly ease it up until it stops on its own. If it fails to go into battery, on its own, the spring is too light and may fail to chamber a round and go fully into battery.
One thing to remember once you do this, if you tune your weapon for the light bullet/heavy spring, firing rounds with a heavy bullet will not function the same. But, the other way around, firing a light bullet in a weapon tuned for the heavy bullet/light spring, could damage the weapon.
If you have a heavy spring most of that energy is displaced in the spring, resulting in a softer push feeling. If you have a weak spring only a small amount of the energy is displaced in the spring and the rest is displaced when the slide slam’s in to the frame.
If an egg is thrown at you can catch it one of 2 ways. You can just stick your hand out and let it smash in to your hand (weak spring). Or, you can draw your hands back with the egg and absorb the eggs energy without breaking it. This creates a more even disbursement of the energy (heavier spring).
Either way your hands absorbed the eggs energy. Catching it differently didn’t change it’s energy. It only changed how the energy displacement was felt by both you and the egg.
Changing spring weight doesn’t change the energy going in to your hands, Just how it’s felt or perceived. A light spring may feel snappier than heavy but there is less muzzle flip for a shorter duration. It also produces less push than a heavy spring; it is a short tap instead of a long push.
1. Try a little experimentation for yourself if you have not already. A few rounds with a 15# spring, a 17# spring and a 20# spring won’t hurt anything.
2. 1911s are NOT Glocks. They have different kinematics and differences in the way the forces are transfered through the frame, due to geometry and material properties. Even the mathematical models show this pretty convincingly. The friction on Glock pistols between the frame and slide is less than in a 1911, the bore is lower and the frame flexes more.
3. For 4 shooters, in a Glock 22, target acquisition, split times, perceived recoil, timing drills were always at least the same, usually better when the spring weights were increased. We went from 15# to 17# to 20#, 150 rounds each. Every shooter prefered the 20# spring. The round we used was Pro-Load 165 grain Tactical Grade (1100 fps chronographed) and a reload that duplicates it (165 Berry’s at 1100 fps). The spring weights were measured and we had to switch 1 of them to make sure the actual weights remained constant.
4. Frame battering, in major caliber Glocks, if you want your pistol to last past 50K rounds or so and REGULARLY use hot or Plus P ammo, then a bump in recoil spring weight will help the gun last longer and allow more reloads on the brass.
5. For the average shooter, I doubt most will ever shoot past 50K rounds on a gun, and the vast majority will be plinking rounds if they do.
6. A factory Glocks trigger (5.5 pounds) precludes any slight advantage that softer springs may have in medium power loads as far as timing and increased performance is concerned.
7. Buy a case of ammo or load 1000 rounds up and get yourself 3 spring weights and match your pistol and load to your shooting.
Connectors;
Everybody seems to want a 3.5lb connector because it is “THE BEST”. The truth of the matter is a 3.5lb connector delivers the lightest trigger pull BUT it also delivers the longest pull available. A lot of shooters confuse the 3.5 connector as a mushy system because it has so far to travel. It is hard for some shooters to grasp this theory because they are thinking less (3.5lb) is best? Try to think of it this way: You want to load a 55 gal drum into the bed of your truck.
1 You get a 30 foot plank and roll the barrel along effortlessly but it takes a long time to get the barrel in the truck. (3.5lb connector)
2 You get a 15 foot plank and roll the barrel along. This requires more effort but it doesn’t take much time to get there. (5lb connector)
3 You get a 5 foot plank and roll the barrel along. Man I noticed the effort here but the barrel was instantly in the truck! (8lb connector)
Factory connectors have less of an angle at the contact point with the trigger bar, less that stock = less resistance. The “+” connector has a greater angle, greater = more resistance. Difference either way is about 15 degrees.
Using a 3.5 lb. Trigger Connector: The factory trigger pull on a Glock is similar to shooting a staple gun. It has a long pull and a slight snap to it as the striker releases. The 3.5 lb. drop-in replacement connector gives an immediate improvement in trigger performance on the Glock pistol. The lighter trigger pull weight and the highly polished, nickel-plated surface make the pull smoother and more consistent. It helps the trigger reset more quickly for faster follow up shots and less temptation to jerk the trigger and compromise accuracy. The imported Glocks to Australia use an 8lbs trigger pull.
Combinations;
While doing my research, I came across this useful guide on trigger spring / connector combos. It was originally on this web site http://gunlovers.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=441
Actually, that link was quoting another article by T.R. Graham. Just want to be sure to acknowledge the original author.) I thought this might be useful for others:
5.5 lb coil trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector
This trigger setup generally gives a nominal pull weight of between 3.5 to almost 6 pounds, and has a somewhat long and “spongy” trigger feel in most guns. An excellent trigger combo for target use, but because of liability concerns it is not normally recommended for defensive applications.
5.5 lb coil trigger spring + 5.5 lb connector
Nominally breaking at 5.5 lbs, and by far the most commonly encountered of all the GLOCK triggers, this factory standard combination is the one that will have the most variation in overall pull weights between guns. Due to various lockwork tolerances a typical stock GLOCK “5.5 pound trigger” can and will break anywhere from 5.5 pounds to almost 8 pounds in a new and tight pistol.*
5.5 lb coil trigger spring + 8 lb connector
One of the least encountered of all the heavier GLOCK factory triggers, this trigger setup is also one of the least desirable, combining and magnifying the vague “spongy” feel of a stock 5.5 coil trigger spring with a stiff 8 pound “+” connector. Although mainly found on police issue GLOCKs, it is a poor choice for defense use, and this trigger setup is emphatically NOT recommended for competition use.*
8 lb NY1 (green) trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector
This almost bulletproof combination will generally give a nominal pull weight of between 4 to 6.5 pounds in most guns, providing a trigger with a much more defined takeup and a much crisper release point. Because the NY trigger spring is virtually unbreakable, this is an especially useful trigger setup for guns used for both competition and defense applications.*
8 lb NY1 (green) trigger spring + 5.5 lb connector
The most widely encountered of all the “heavy weight” GLOCK triggers, this combination gives a nominal pull weight of between 8 to 12 pounds, depending on the gun. Like with the 8 lb “NY” # 1 trigger spring with a 3.5 lb connector, the trigger takeup is firmer and more defined, and letoff and trigger reset is much crisper than the stock 5.5 lb trigger. Also, unlike the stock coil trigger springs, the “NY” trigger springs are virtually unbreakable in normal use, making this an excellent setup for hard duty or rough condition use.*
11 lb NY2 (orange) trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector
This combination feels much like a 8 lb “NY” # 1 trigger spring with a 5.5 lb connector, breaking at or about 9 to 15 pounds. Applications include rough duty or home defense use. Recommended only as a substitute when a standard “NY” # 1 spring cannot be installed.*
11 lb NY2 (orange) trigger spring + 5.5 lb connector
The super-heavy weight of GLOCK triggers, this combination averages from 11 to almost 20 pounds trigger pull. Of limited use, applications include home defense for people with young children, or with persons having especially large and strong hands.*
EITHER of the NY trigger springs + 8 lb connector
NOT approved by the factory. As well as giving a incredibly heavy trigger pull, installing these two components together can cause failure of the sear kickup on the trigger drawbar to drop down far enough to clear the firing pin lug with some guns. In effect, although the trigger will move back and forth, the pistol will not fire. Furthermore, if this happens the pistol cannot be field stripped to remove these components without first removing the firing pin mechanism from the slide.
Trigger Recipes
1) 8 lb NY1 (green) trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector. This almost bulletproof combination will generally give a nominal pull weight of between 4 to 6.5 pounds in most guns, providing a trigger with a much more defined takeup and a much crisper release point. Because the NY trigger spring is virtually unbreakable, this is an especially useful trigger setup for guns used for both competition and defense applications.
2) For a 5-6 lbs trigger it would be very easy. For a true 6 lbs spring use the factory springs and connector. For a 4-5 lbs spring either use our connector or trigger spring with the factory firing pin spring. It is not an exact science but going heavier is always easier than going lighter.
3) Here’s a suggestion that may prove somewhat controversial: Use a 4 lb connector (Glock works has them) and get yourself a NY #1 trigger module.
4) Lone Wolf 3.5 connector
Lone Wolf Ultimate Trigger Stop
Lone Wolf 4 lb striker spring
Lone Wolf 6 lb trigger spring
Polish the trigger bar “birds head” flat and edge where it contacts the connector also the raised angled edge where it contacts the firing pin safety and the “kick up” edge where it engages the striker leg. Polish the leading edge of the firing pin safety and the face. Polish the face of the striker leg.
Squirt a little “Flitz” between all bearing surfaces of the trigger system. (everything you polished) Keep it there for a few hundred rounds then clean all the parts and check the bearing surfaces. They should be lapped in completely. If so, replace the Flitz with a small amount of quality grease or oil. If not, add a little more Flits and check it again in a couple hundred rounds.
Special note: You can use this recipe with any connector, 3.5/5/8. Try them all and pick the one best suited to your style shooting
For rough tuning try different standard weights. For fine-tuning, take a spring slightly heavier than you prefer and trim it until it is just right, this is a trial and error process.
5) The fulcrum trigger will indeed lower the trigger pull though. Installing a 3.5 connector w/ ny trigger spring will make reset better and polishing the firing pin and replacing the firing pin spring will shorten reset.
6) The heavier trigger spring will lighten the trigger a good bit, particularly during takeup. The lighter connector doesn’t change takeup at all but will make the break lighter. It will also tend to make the break “mushier”. Some folks don’t really notice the “mushy” or don’t have a problem with it.
Things to look out for;
If you reduce the poundage you will increase wear on other components such as the lower barrel lugs where they make contact with the vertical impact surface. The process of extraction and ejection are altered in fact that is how one might tell they need to replace their springs when you see the casing being thrown into another time zone.
The relationship with magazine springs and followers can affect how well the pistol feeds and is often referred to as the primary cause of malfunctions. On the flip side, running your gun in a dirty environment, or wanting to insure your gun cycles reliably, some folks recommend raising the poundage to 17-18 lbs. Duty guns.
Competitors tune their recoil springs as mentioned for soft ammo using the idea of managing the recoil so they get back on the target faster. At this point they add a little weight so they might reduce muzzle flip.
You can play with these ideas along with downloading your ammo but the standard weight of 16 lbs for recoil springs and practicing will likely be better for you than tinkering and losing confidence in your pistol.
Peening happens because the frame flexes under recoil allowing the locking block to move upwards and hit the slide.
The most common approach to dropping trigger pulls is to replace the factory firing pin spring with a lighter unit. Unfortunately this makes the gun sensitive to primer hardness. Run hard primers with a light firing pin spring, you will get misfires. If you can always control what ammunition goes into your gun by choosing only ammunition that uses federal soft primers.
Explaining Pre-travel, Reset and Over-travel
1.Pre-travel. Pre-travel is the amount of ‘slack’ that must be taken up before the full weight of the trigger begins. Some pre-travel may give the user the ability to feel the trigger prior to discharge, it also increases the length of pull, which may add some safety margin.
2.Overtravel. Overtravel is the amount that the trigger is free to move after the point at which it activates. In most applications, minimal overtravel is consdiered advantageous as it prevents any jarring caused by the trigger hitting a sudden stop after release. With self-loading firearms, overtravel considered detrimental because it increases the reset distance.
3.Reset. Reset is the distance the trigger must travel forward (as pressure is released) before the trigger is ready to be fired again. Reset is not a concern in single-shot firearms, but in self-loaders where a fast follow-up shot may be desirable, a short reset is preferred.
In conclusion;
As with any modifications or gunsmithing tips, take them with a grain of salt and do your own research.
What I would like to achieve is a 5 pound trigger pull to bring it down from the 8 pound factory weight. Essentially a tactical trigger system, not as light as a competition trigger but not as heavy as a duty trigger where you end up missing the target. Have a medium trigger pull and a short reset using a Zev Industries model ZT-STD-D-9-TAC as a base to work from, being made from CNC billet aluminium. Then play around with a 14 pound recoil spring, Ghost 3.5 lbs tactical connector and Light New York trigger spring and see what happens.
Amendment’s;
Found out some more information since writing article. I will be using a full fulcrum kit. The trigger is billet aluminium and not polymer. It’s also three times wider, better for accuracy. Will also need a 9mm trigger kit to use in a converted 40cal as the ejector pin is slightly different in a 9mm compared to a 40.
Glockworx Triggers
http://www.glockworx.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3688
Ghost Connector Tactical 3.5 lbs
http://www.ghostinc.com/category/50_tactical/
NY trigger Spring
http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/TriggerSprings/GLO-7405BK2.htm
Links
Anarchangel Blog – How to make a Glock not Suck
http://anarchangel.blogspot.com.au/2005/03/how-to-make-glock-not-suck.html
Modding the Glock – By Duane Thomas
Glock Tech – Recoil Springs, guide rods, Connectors
http://www.custom-glock.com/glocktech.html
Recoil Springs
http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=5#109
Spring Tech
http://www.custom-glock.com/springtech.html
Triggers – Pull Weight, NY Triggers
http://www.boatmanbooks.com/samplelwglocks.html
http://vickerstactical.com/tactical-tips/trigger-pull-weight/
Barrel Comparison
http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1420767
http://glock.pro/glock-pistols/1764-barrel.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU83fh6XoYA
Glock Gen 3 vs Gen 4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtS59trmk3Q
Zev Tech trigger installation
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iawkkWSHioQ&feature=plcp
Australian Glock Importer Parts
C-More sights and mounts
http://www.dillonprecision.com.au/c/66/more-sights.html?osCsid=27a30b1600b69a2c7e80f319ddf1e33a
Trijicon sights
http://www.urbanconquest.com.au/
Zev Technologies and Lonewolf
Glock Parts
Trigger Design
http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=504
GFJ Firearms (special thanks for all the advice and help)
i started putting this together many years ago and my health went down hill and this was as far as I went with it.
Module 1 Urban Survival
Why teach “survival” in the city?
Catastrophes vs. disasters
This is about your SURVIVAL, not volunteering
Priorities for human survival
Shelter construction
Fire making
Signalling
Equipment and supplies
Social implications of disasters
Personal security concerns
Complete loss of civil infrastructure
Minimal or no police, fire or EMS response
No electricity, municipal water, communications
Transport of fuel / food is severely impaired
Public safety agencies will be overwhelmed
Recovery is long term (over 30 days)
Disaster V. Catastrophe
Disasters are short term
“Make do for 3-4 days until help arrives…”
Catastrophic events are long term
Katrina-scale hurricane, tsunami, earthquake
Major terror attack, nuclear detonation, dirty bomb
No help is coming soon, “you are on your own”
What the military survival schools teach:
Seven Priorities For Survival
“Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst”
Positive mental attitude
First Aid / Sanitation
Shelter
Signaling
Fire
Water
Food
Situational awareness, basic knowledge and
a “survivor’s mindset” enable you to cope effectively
STOP Calm down, and size up your situation…
THINK Anticipate which hazards are most likely
Take stock of materials and resources around you
OBSERVE Orient yourself to your surroundings
PLAN Select equipment and supplies appropriately
ACT! Execute your plan, evaluate progress, adjust, “party on.”
PREPAREDNESS
Have an evacuation kit ready at all times
Don’t presume that a disaster will be short-term
Pack essentials first, then consider comfort items
In real emergences, forget last-minute purchases
Plan for more supplies than you “think” you may need
Inspect / renew your supplies each spring and fall
Provide entertainment for young children.
SIX STEPS TO PROBLEM SOLVING
Size Up Your Situation
Determine Objectives (stay or evacuate?)
Identify Resources (either stored supplies or salvaged materials from your surroundings)
Evaluate Options (use the safest way)
Plan (use your head)
Act…Improvise and overcome
FIRST AID AND SANITATION
Maintain personal and family health
Prompt treatment reduces infection risk
Sanitation reduces risk of disease vectors
Water borne illnesses, diarrhoea
Major cause of dehydration
Increases your survivability!
Disaster Injury Risk Factors:
Tool / equipment hazards, risk of hand, eye, head injuries, electric shock, chemical burns
Human factors stress / fatigue
Structural instability
Trauma risk, falls, building collapse potential
Terrain, loose rock, fallen limbs, wet or insecure footing, risk of falls, puncture wounds and lacerations from debris.
Disaster Contamination:
Stagnant surface water
Mosquito breeding
Contaminated flood waters
Sewage treatment system overflow
Petroleum, industrial, agricultural chemical contamination
Airborne contaminant plumes
Smoke, dust, toxic gases,
or radioactive fallout.
SHELTER
Protection from the elements
Wind and rain resistant
Insulation from cold
The “Stay or Evacuate” Decision
If evacuation is not mandatory, the same safety rules
for entering a structure apply to using your home as shelter
DO NOT OCCUPY IF:
There is structural damage
(6 sides of the “box” are not plumb)
Utilities cannot be controlled
Structure was damaged in a fire
DO NOT occupy a floor that has been flooded,
micotoxins from molds are respiratory hazard!
EVACUATION PLANNING
Best to relocate with friends or relatives outside of affected area
Don’t rely on government-run shelters
They are an “option of last resort” for those unable to evacuate
Evacuation route selection is important
Make sure your vehicle can carry essentials
A huge “bug-out” vehicle is a handicap on crowded roads
It uses more fuel, which may be expensive / scarce in an emergency.
Don’t plan on fuel being available en route
In normal times always keep your gas tank at least half full
Upon warning an event is imminent, conserve fuel, keep tank ¾ full
Carry extra fuel containers outside the vehicle
EVACUATE OR STAY?
Population of the area
Propensity to self-evacuate, overwhelmingly by automobile
Wide distribution of evacuation destinations,
Perceived vulnerability to terror attack, and anticipation of multiple attacks
Result:
A large-scale, chaotic mass self-evacuation should be anticipated.
SHELTER IN PLACE
Critical facilities that cannot evacuate (hospitals, EOCs) must continue to operate
Necessary if fallout/contamination would arrive before evacuation can be completed
Fallout Shelters will be needed to protect against high level radiation/detonation
Shelter-in-place (not necessarily Fallout Shelter) near RDD/very low level
Shelter stay may range from a few days to 2 weeks.
Authorities outside affected area can organize rescue/evacuation effort
Shelter occupants may be exposed and/or contaminated.
Necessary if operations can not be transferred or if staff, patients or clients cannot evacuate
Necessary if needed to support operations of other response agencies
Must have Radiological Monitoring & Exposure Control capabilities
Critical Facilities may be used to shelter families of the staff
Critical Facilities will not be used to shelter the general public.
DECONTAMINATION after a flood or attack
start immediately, even if you don’t know what the agent is.
EXPEDIENT FIELD DECONTAMINATION
If you are contaminated:
Remove everything, including jewelry
Cut off clothing normally removed over the head
Place contaminated clothing in plastic bag, tie closed
Wash your hands before using them to shower
Flush entire body with cool water
Blot dry with absorbent cloth
Put on clean clothes
Avoid use of affected areas, to prevent re-exposure
If professional help arrives, report to responders
for thorough decontamination and medical assessment.
Sheltering at Home During an Emergency
For using a building without working utilities as shelter
Exhaust – candles, camp stoves, lanterns, generators,
heaters, charcoal grills, all generate carbon monoxide
and must not be used indoors!
Open flame – above ignition sources
must never be left unattended!
Fuel – most of the above require flammable fuels
to operate, which must be stored outdoors.
Use Fire Marshal approved fuel containers
Improvised Emergency Shelters
As in all real estate, most important is location:
Avoid low spots with poor drainage
Seek a gently sloped area so that surface water drains away
Sheltered from prevailing winds
Away from bodies of water (attracts insects and animals)
Insulated from direct contact with ground, rock,
or concrete, which conducts away body heat.
Avoid as shelter:
Areas around downed utility lines
In or near culverts
Within the “collapse zone” of a damaged building
(maintain 2:1 ratio of distance away to building height)
Improvised Shelters:
Sheds
Tents
Tarps
Vehicles
Don’t disable a good car!
Remove car batteries to power communications and
shelter lighting only from cars that do not start
If a car starts reserve it for emergency evacuation, or
Use it as a “battery charger”
Salvage lighting, remove dome lights, tail lights,
trunk lights, etc. & with at least 36” of wires.
Position batteries in shelter; attach wires & lights
As batteries discharge, replace with new batteries
or recharge batteries.
Emergency Shelter Materials:
Salvage building materials from debris or
from damaged structures only when it can be done safely
Plastic sheeting
Roofing paper and shingles
Siding, plywood
Chain link fence
Lumber
Carpeting
Wire, rope, and fasteners
Build Your Shelter In Layers
Structural framing: lumber, plywood, fencing, metal
Fasteners: reinforce structural connections with nails, wire or rope ties, wooden spikes
Water and wind proofing: plastic sheeting, tarp, shingles, roofing paper
Insulation: drywall, leaves, tree branches, carpeting, (may also be used as ballast to hold water/wind proofing layer in place)
SIGNALLING
Day: Mirror flashes – best daylight signal device
Smoke
Brightly colored cloth flag / panel (VS-17)
ICAO surface-to-air signals
V Require assistance
X Need medical assistance
Y Yes – affirmative
N No – negative
→ I am proceeding in this direction
Night: Flashing strobe light
Fire
Signal flares
Sound, i.e. whistle, siren, vehicle horn
FIRE:
Maintains body temperature
Great morale booster
Deters wild animals and insects
Boils water
Cooks food
Used as day (smoke)
or night (light) signal
FIRE MAKING METHODS
Matches or lighter
Flint and steel (Doan Machinery Corp. Fire Starter)
Use cotton ball and petroleum jelly as tinder
Battery and steel wool
Fresnel lens
WATER SUPPLY
Minimum for drinking
1 gallon per person, per day
More water is needed for
Cooking and food preparation
Personal hygiene, sanitation and decontamination
Store a two week supply as minimum
Food grade containers with screw caps
Away from direct sunlight
EMERGENCY WATER SOURCES
Captive water in household hot water tank and interior plumbing is OK
Filter cloudy water to remove particulates, using an EPA-rated filter
with a pore size ≤ 1 micron, then:
Disinfect with Clorox (6% sodium hypochlorite) add 8 drops of Chlorox
bleach per gallon if clear, 16 drops if cloudy, let water stand 15 minutes before use
Or boil vigorously for 15 minutes
Store potable water in clean containers.
All natural sources (from springs, ponds, rivers or streams)
must be boiled or chemically disinfected.
Chemical disinfection or boiling – Kills bacteria and viruses
Doesn’t remove particulates or chemical pollutants
Filtration – Coffee filters, etc. remove gross particulates only
EPA-rated filters (pore size smaller than 1 micron) are needed
to remove bacteria, viruses and Giardia cysts, but don’t remove chemical pollutants.
Distillation is the most effective method.
FOOD
Lowest of the seven survival priorities
Need is mostly mental, because we are used to eating regularly
Healthy people will do OK without food for a week or more, if they are well hydrated
Balanced nutrition is a important health factor for elderly and infants.
SHELF LIFE OF FOOD STORED IN THE HOME
Food in a refrigerator is safe for a day after the power goes off,
either use it in 24 hours or throw it away
Frozen food is safe if there are still ice crystals,
once thawed, cook and consume it within 24 hours
Next use non-perishables and dry staples
Canned foods are best for long term storage
(up to 4 years) but are heavy to transport and bulky to store
Dry packaged foods are easiest to transport
Choose foods requiring minimal preparation
Eat at least one balanced meal daily
Include nutritional supplements in supplies
Drink enough water.
EMERGENCY FOOD SUPPLIES
MREs, or Heater Meals
Prepared survival rations
Primitive survival methods:
Fishing
Hunting
Trapping
Foraging
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Folding utility knife or multi-tool
Scout type, Leatherman, Swiss Army
Manual can opener, if not on utility knife
Sturdy fixed blade, such as 5″ Military knife
For chopping, digging, or as pry bar
Shovel, Gerber field spade or similar
Hand saw, #7947 Fiskars Woodzig Pruning Saw, folding 10″
Axe
ESSENTIAL SUPPLIES
Each person should have their own backpack of personal essentials
Flashlight
Portable radio
Extra batteries
First Aid Kit, (containing a first aid manual)
Personal medications and sanitation supplies
Cooking and eating utensils
Wool blanket or sleeping bag for each person
Sturdy shoes and extra socks
Rain gear
Change of warm clothing and underwear
Items for special needs, care of infants
DISASTER FINANCIAL PLANNING
Electronic transactions, account verifications may be impossible
Evacuate with enough cash for at least two weeks of essentials
Carry account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions
Helping one’s unprepared friends and neighbours may prove expensive!
SOCIAL IMPLICATIONS OF DISASTERS
Cumulative psychological effects upon survivors
Evacuate or Stay? – Do you have a plan?
Where will you go? Is it safe to travel? Can you REALLY get there? Do you have enough resources to make it work?
Warn friends not to invite others to come and evacuate with them
They’ll overwhelm your limited resources!
Never allow family members to be separated
Even if it means waiting for later rescue and/or evacuation
The well prepared may be threatened by those who weren’t – get to know your neighbors NOW for a safer community later in case of a disaster
Make plans to ensure neighbourhood security/family protection
Post a guard in rotating shifts, to deter roving criminals or looters
Keep firearms and ammunition safely secured
Take a home firearms safety-protection course
Lessons from Hurricane Katrina
When help arrives, you may get it
“…….whether you want it or not.”
Don’t believe that all rescuers will respect your property
Relief workers from other States often don’t know local laws
Relief organizations have their own bureaucratic requirements that may conflict with your needs
Expect frustration over lack of communication and empathy by rescuers and local/State government.
COURSE SUMMARY:
Positive attitude – Stop Think Observe Plan
First Aid / Sanitation – Maintain proper hygiene, preserve family health, prevent illness or injury
Shelter – Protection from environmental hazards – use Time, Distance, Shielding
Signaling / Communication- be heard / seen
Fire – Warmth, light, food prep, water sterilization
Water – Prevent water-borne illnesses through filtration, chemical sterilization, boiling or distillation
Food – Eat at least one balanced meal daily, drink enough water, include nutritional supplements
Equipment- Flashlight, knife, saw, axe, shovel
Planning – Prepare a Kit, Make A Plan!
Module 2
Firearms Holster Proficiency
Course safety
Three fundamentals of gun control
Safety in the classroom
Safety on the range
Safety equipment
Legislation, Regulations and Rules
EQUIPMENT
What you need
Types of handguns used
Revolvers
Semi-automatic pistols
BASIC BALLISTICS
Range communications
Safe handling of handguns
Loading & unloading a handgun
Safe clearance of malfunctions
Safety checks on handguns
Basic reloading information
PRACTICAL COMPONENT
Module 3 Defensive Driving
Defensive driving is relevant, enjoyable, and will far improve your skills and ability levels. Young drivers are strongly encouraged to develop better on-road defensive driving skills and more solid techniques, but more experienced drivers also benefit enormously from advanced driver training, including the correction of old habits and improving judgement and reactions. This one-day Defensive Driving Course Level 1 course is suited to all drivers of regular passenger vehicles, including four-wheel drives and light commercial vehicles. The mix of practical and theoretical components of this advanced driver training session deliver actual on-road safety skills that underpin proactive driving.
The practical driving component of our Defensive Driving Program is conducted on wet roads at suburban speeds. It includes a variety of on road exercises including emergency braking, swerving and multiple direction changes.
The aim of these exercises is to educate drivers in:
A comprehensive open forum that exposes many well worn motoring myths and where we are most vulnerable in our driving habits. The open forum is a time for breaking down barriers.
Enlightening facts about tyre capabilities and the absolute necessity of understanding their limitations.
Practical simulated emergencies in a controlled environment on the bitumen. You do the driving.
Extensive correctional tuition in simulated emergencies in skid control/skid prevention/car control.
Practical simulated emergencies and skid control/skid prevention on an unsealed surface*.
Extensive correctional techniques for dirt driving*.
Explanations of vehicle dynamics and how they change according to the dirt surface.
Defensive driving guidelines that will help avoid “the other driver”.
*(Dirt component may be altered due to weather/track conditions – in the event of poor conditions an extension in bitumen surface training will be implemented).
The classroom component of this course covers basic road safety concepts and the key principals of defensive driving including:
Through practical driving exercises, become more ‘speed aware’, particularly in how the degree of vehicle control difficulty increases exponentially in relation to increases in vehicle speeds.
Develop an understanding of basic vehicle dynamics, in emergency situations
Learn to predict potential hazards, identify risky situations and minimise danger
Understand the importance of keeping your vision high and maintaining sensible safety margins around your vehicle at all times
Develop a positive and proactive attitude towards defensive driving
Module 4 Knife Skills
It has become increasingly clear that the world we live in is rapidly changing. Values that were once accepted as being the norm are no longer valid and the need to take control and responsibility for your own personal safety is now critical to individual survival. Violent crimes on the streets and inside of homes of the citizens that involve edged weapons are taking place on a daily basis. Awareness of personal safety issues are at the forefront of individuals everyday concerns and especially those who have families and work in occupations that put them in potentially risky situations.Nobody can expect criminals to do the right thing or for Government Agencies to be able to protect you from these people in times of social disorder, or in the instant that you life is threatened. Being proficient in some form of Tactical Knife Method is not an overreaction to the current state of the world or a product of unjustifiable paranoia, but more a small step in helping to guarantee yourself preservation and in turn, that of those in your care.
The rapid escalation of blade assaults on Australian streets, as well as the growing edged weapon problems emerging in areas of organised criminal activity, indicate that the use of the blade and other edged implements is on the increase and is now the weapon of choice amongst many career criminals, gang members, and even teenage groups, with the ease of availability and the ability to conceal these weapons making them attractive to those who have no regard for the laws of society.When it comes to teaching the concepts and techniques required to minimize potential injury by bladed weapon assaults, even the best martial arts generalist can’t be expected to have expert answers to such a specialist problem. In addition, it is a dangerous misconception to think that non knife specialists are in any way qualified to design concepts and techniques to be used against knife attacks, even if the attacker is someone who is untrained..
Module 5 Knife Defense
In this seven day intensive course you will be learn techniques from the highly respected and innovative combative systems.The extensive content covered in this course will take your edged, impact and improvised weapon skills to a whole new level. Learn how to defend against knife and stick attacks using both empty hand and improvised weapon defences. Learn how to utilise found items as edged weapons, short & long impact weapons and more!
Module 6 Hand to Hand
Level 1 – Foundation SkillsDay 1&2
Introduction, Isolation and Integration of Intercepting and Stabilising Skills
Forklift, Helmet, Dive, Arm Drag, 2 on 1 Escort, Wrist Weave, Seatbelt, Harness, Body Lock, Shake the Blanket, Under hook and Pike, The Triple Threat
Introduction to Resolution – The “S” Position, Arm Wrap and Knee Ride
Day 3
Resolution – above + back mount with rides, handlebar, resolution for cuffing
Integration of Day 1&2 skills against alive resistance during various drills including multiple subjects and confined spaces
Level 2 – Intermediate ApplicationsDay 4&5 Ground and Combative Applications including attached striking, clinch with cloth, ground recovery, clinch
Module 7 Medical
Field Medical training in Austere Environments
providing personnel with the skills, knowledge & attitude required to
undertake the initial or ongoing management of a range of life-threatening
medical emergencies, in a range of tactical situations & environments. Based on proven tactical medical practice
courses cover such topics as;
Introduction to tactical medical operations
Tactical Risk assessment & management strategies
Communications, leadership & decision-making
Phases of tactical care & scene management
Tactical medical equipment
Tactical patient assessment
Tactical trauma care
Tactical triage & evacuation techniques
Care through the barricade
Tactical emergency drills
Integrating with emergency services
Medical threat assessments
Module 8 Wilderness First Aid
Basic Wilderness First Aid (BWFA) (2 days – 16 hours) Fun, practical and loaded with scenarios this is the ideal introduction to the field of Wilderness Medicine for those playing in the outdoors. Wilderness First Aid (inc CPR) (3 days – 24 hours) This 3-day course covers the same material as the 2-day course as well as offering CPR and more scenario based teaching. A well rounded introduction to Wilderness First Aid for bushwalkers, climbers, paddlers and those who find themselves out and about. Advanced Wilderness First Aid (AWFA) (4 days – 32 hours) The AWFA course is an excellent starting point for serious recreational adventurers or those starting in the Outdoor Recreation/Education fields. Plenty of scenarios, CPR/EAR and a solid understanding of patient assessment sets you up for success.
Module 8 Defensive Tactics Course2 days full time
Content: Legalities, Force Continuum Techniques etc Baton Techniques Handcuff Techniques Pressure Point Control Techniques Joint Locks/Escort Techniques Blocks, Strikes & Kicks, Restraint and removal techniques.
This program presents in-depth information for instruction of operational personnel in empty hand defensive tactics, restraint & control, mechanical restraints, and intermediate force options with the expandable baton. The strategies presented are simple, practical and effective, and are designed for use by operational personnel in real world situations against real violence. Theory content covers threat assessment, interpersonal communication for conflict, understanding stress, lawful guidelines for use of force responses, human physiology, anatomy and biomechanics and fundamental combat principles and concepts. Practical content for empty hand component covers strategies for creating distance, escape countermeasures, strike theory, takedowns and ground work, low and high threat restraint and control strategies, fundamentals of weapons awareness and defence against multiple subjects. Mechanical restraints and baton components cover types of restraints and batons, carriage, lawful use and maintenance or equipment. Trainer content includes professional demeanour and presentation, safety in training, class formats and structure, using active and dynamic drills effectively, creating tactical blueprints and avoiding training scars, and general fitness for use of force incidents.
Module 9 Improvised weaponry
Tactical Shemagh, kubutons, improvised tools from everyday objects, tactical pens, Custom made SD Tools, short stick 21”, canes 36”.
Module 10 Blade introduction
Bevels – primary, secondary
Cuts – chop, push ,slice, whittle, tip cope, edge cope, draw, shearing, thrust
Grinds – flat, hollow, chisel, convex
Steels – stainless, carbon
Tempering – hardening
Parts – tang, clip, ridge line, ricasso, choil, belly, false edge, grind plunge
Grips – reverse, hammer, ice pick, fencers, sabre
Module 11 Lie Detection Techniques
Module 12 Bug out bags and EDC’s
Module 13 Home Security
Module 14 Self Defense Awareness
Module 15 Combative Anatomy
Module 16 Car Jacking Prevention
Module 17 Escape and Evasion
Module 18 Rape Prevention
Module 19 Pandemics
Module 20 IED Recognition
Module 21 Home Preps Test
Module 22 Vehicle Break in Prevention
