Category: Urban Survival

Lock Picking

(Keep it Legal, join Lock Sport Australia.)

I developed an interest in lock picking when I worked in the security industry however i found there were much easier ways of breaking in than standing there picking a lock. I was going to start my own business at one stage helping people on a residential level to prevent break-ins many years ago.

However with lock sport starting up withn Australia the last few years and being on a walking frame for a time Ive been looking back into it as a hobby. Below is a list of equipment that I have started acquiring.

Sparrows Ranger set

6 x Picks with thermal handles

1 x Level 1 Wrenches

1 x Padlock shim set

1 x Wafer keys

1 x SHANK

1 x Mini Jim

Australian bump key set small

1 x Lockwood LW4

1 x Lockwood LW4R

1 x Gainsborough TE2

Sparrows traveller hooks

Southord auto jigglers

Sparrows coffin keys

Sparrows quick shims

Sparrow mantis

handcuff shims

Sparrows master switch

Sparrows shank

Sparrows 3 in 1 clear practice lock spool, standard and serrated

Brockhage practice padlock

Practice handcuff

Lishi LW5 2 in 1 6 pin and spacer

Youtube channels i like. the modern rouge, lock noob, lock picking lawyer, its tactical, deviant oliam, dark arts lock picking.

Keep an eye out at DALP for up coming training courses.

https://dalp.com.au/

Lock bypassing

Pick every sort of lock

lock picks

lishi LW5

Australian Tool Sources

https://www.locksmithstoolbox.com/

https://www.pickmylock.com.au/

Glock Armorer Research

This is an article I put together a while ago, a long while ago while trying to learn about building glocks and aftermarket parts. Finally have all the components and built one gun based on a G22 40cal and then sold it haf way through . It worked out cheaper to purchase a Zev. Everything done out of the factory. I had started to get back into pistol shooting while still on oxygen and gave this to one of the instructors whom was an ex federal police instructor. He had never seen anything like it and I was told that it had more information than in the glock Armourers course.. i no longer shoot. Due to state laws I travel around too much to keep up with storage regulations. I havent checked links but have left them there for quoting sources of information.

Building a Glock Research

I was undecided on whether to start and do a build on a custom STI tactical 4.15 with an extended 5 inch barrel to be of legal length in oz or buy a Glock and came across the following picture on the m4carbine forum, which sort of settled the choice for me. That and finding several Australian importers of glock parts, that hadn’t been available to me in the past making buying the accessories and parts much easier than importing from overseas due to current import restrictions. It also allowed me to do most of the work myself, unlike working on a STI 2011. http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=95628

The following link describes how to break the trigger down into its separate components, in order to understand how modifying each one can change the characteristics of the trigger and gun as a whole. http://militarytimes.com/blogs/gearscout/2012/01/01/glock-setup-tips/

There are three main components to the Glock trigger action that determine pull weight: the connector, firing pin spring, and trigger spring. I will be discussing these along with barrel choices, guide rod recoil springs, guide rod weight and combinations of these. The following information is all I could find to learn about building a Glock, since I had never owned one before.

Firstly Guide Rods;

To start with in Glocks guide rods have absolutely no effect on the accuracy of your pistol. In a standard 1911 the guide rod, being so short, only guides the spring at the end of the rearward action. This allows the spring to move from side to side in the frame channel and could allow interference. The full length guide rod forces the spring to stay centered and slide along the guide rod reducing the interference. Ti is worthless for guide rods, you want heavier not lighter. Steel is only slightly heavier but if you are really in tune with your gun you can feel a subtle difference in the handling. Tungsten is much heavier than steel and makes a significant difference.

Below are some guiderod weights. Aftermarket rods are all same brand. Weights do not include the recoil spring.

Stock 17 2.04 grams = 0.071 ounce

Captured Stainless 17 18.3 gr = 0.645 oz

Cap Tungsten 17 34.18 gr = 1.206 oz

Non-cap Tungsten 34 44.56 gr = 1.572 oz

When compared to stock the tungsten is significantly heavier. When compared to stainless the tungsten is almost double the weight. Here is where it gets real interesting. An empty G17 weighs 625 grams. Adding a captured tungsten rod increases the total weight of the gun by more than 5% and in a key location. An empty g34 weighs in at 650 grams. With an extended tungsten rod you are increasing the total weight by almost 7%.

Something that weighs less than 2 ounces may not seems like much but it does make a significant difference in recovery from recoil.

My personal view

I’m using a model 22 in 40cal and converting it to a 9mm. This will bring up the barrel wall thickness and also the front weight of the firearm. I am therefore sticking to a steel guide rod. If I were using a stock thickness competition barrel I would then use a Tungsten rod.

Captured Vs. Non-Captured;

I personally use non captured rods. It is easier to swap out springs and with a little practice it is not any harder to assemble your pistol. There is no mechanical advantage or disadvantage to either, it’s just personal preference. If using a single load, such as when reloading a captured system is easier to install when cleaning. It’s similar to a bolt with a nut on the end that keeps the spring under tension. The advantage of non-captured is when working up loads or using more than one type of factory load and wanting to tune the firearm to the load being used. I generally use three different loads. A 147 grain subsonic at 980fps, my usual load is a Hornady steel match 125 grain running at 1100fps that cost $280 per 500 and ex-military FMJ plus P loads which cost $350 per 1000 rounds. An uncaptured spring set up allows me to change them out using a $12 spring, whereas with a captured system you have to replace the entire guide rod and spring.

Barrels;

KKM vs. Stormlake vs. Lonewolf. There are three links below comparing the three brands. From what I can tell there isn’t that much difference. If I were to choose a standard wall thickness match grade barrel, to fit in a standard slide assembly 9mm to 9mm, without opting to use a conversion/bull barrel 40smith to 9mm luger. I would probably choose a KKM due to the type manufacture, using button rifling.

Button rifling is a process, in which a Titanium Nitride coated Carbide button is pulled under pressure to displace metal to produce a rifled barrel. This process is very expensive but produces a better finished size, surface finish, and surface hardness as well as maintains a more uniform rate of twist than any other rifling process. Each button can be used to produce thousands a barrels before wearing undersized. This allows us to maintain the highest level of quality control.

That’s if I wanted to wait 6 months for the import process to occur in this country and could be bothered filling out B709 forms. If choosing a bull barrel style conversion it would be between a Stormlake and a Lonewolf as KKM don’t make a conversion barrel. The same import process would be required for the Stormlake. Lonewolf have an importer listed below. Hence the lonewolf is my choice.

Note: I have been told that KKM barrels are very tight and some require minor fitting.

Trigger Springs;

The NY trigger are a coil spring within a frame as opposed to factory coil spring, the modules alter the internal geometry and relationship of the trigger linkage. You now have a spring pushing straight up on the back of the cruciform, instead of applying pressure at an angle. The result is a smooth trigger pull and a clean break, with a lightning-fast reset.

http://www.glockmeister.com/TriggerSpringInstallation.asp

Dawson are just reselling the Glock Triggers kit. It removes pre-travel and gives a nice trigger: reduced travel and light pull, not for use on anything but a competition gun. I would offer one word of caution: you need to be very careful about setting the over travel stop and make sure that it does not creep out of adjustment, by using a little blue Loctite.

The Ghost Rocket is not a trigger kit, it is just a connector with a fixed over travel stop that needs to be fitted to an individual gun by filing. It works well, but it is not a complete trigger kit.

NOTE; If you have a Glock that has a couple thousand rounds through it your trigger is already lapped in. If you replace the trigger bar or connector in this gun, it will feel terrible. Any part that is replaced into a lapped system needs to be lapped in itself before a reliable evaluation can be made.

Guide Rod/Recoil Springs;

Effects of a lighter spring: Recoil is transferred to the shooter in a shorter duration of time because the slide is moving at a higher velocity. This is often perceived as less recoil and reduced muzzle flip. With a lighter spring the shooter also has less force to counteract, or you don’t have to work as hard. This usually reduces muzzle flip. Less force to counteract reduces the odds of producing a limp wrist style jam. A lighter spring will result is reduced muzzle dip when the slide closes keeping sights steadier and on target for a faster follow-up shot. Light springs are particularly helpful to smaller shooters like children, women or anyone else having trouble keeping their wrists locked.

Effects of a Heavier spring: Recoil is transferred to the shooter over a longer duration of time due to lower slide velocities. Slower slides equal a longer recovery time for the shooter. The shooter does more work, as there is more force to counteract. This often causes and increase in muzzle flip. The chances of a limp wrist style jam are increased, as there is more force working to unlock your wrists. The chance of the slide short stroking and causing a feed jam is increased. Increased muzzle dip when the slide closes for a slower follow-up shot.

Brass Ejection: It does not matter how far away it lands or if it is in a neat pile. You are there to shoot not to pick up brass.

Frame Battering: A non-issue for Glock pistols. It falls under the category of Internet Nonsense along with the idea that light springs cause kabooms and broken parts.

Spring Selection and Testing: There is no magic weight that is perfect for all shooters, loads and guns. Each shooter must evaluate and test various weights to determine what is best for their application. For rough tuning try different standard weights. For fine-tuning, take a spring slightly heavier than you prefer and trim it until it is just right, this is a trial and error process.

NOTE; MATCH THE SPRING TO THE LOAD.

If trimming springs. Start by removing 1 coil at a time and then check for full travel. Trim until the slide has full travel then check for proper lockup. You can go too light: The firing pin spring can overpower an old or too light recoil spring causing the slide to pull slightly out of battery as you pull the trigger resulting in a light primer strike. If you have off center light primer strike this is probably the cause. Feeding jams; The slide can be so fast that the mag spring cannot keep up.

By using 11 pound recoil springs should greatly reduce or eliminate the need for cutting 13s and should work great in the 9mm guns and the compacts.

IMPORTANT NOTE:

Factory recoil spring ratings above are for current production models with captive factory recoil spring systems which are silver/gray in color. Previous captive factory recoil assemblies for the 17, 17L, 20, 21 & 22 had recoil springs rated at 16 pounds. Earlier non-captive models of the 17, 17L and 19 had factory recoil springs rated at 19 pounds. Not for use in Generation 4 pistols.

•Reduced Power…: 10, 11, 12, 14, 15 & 16 Lb.

•Factory Standard.: 17 Lb.

•Extra Power………: 19, 20, 22 & 24 Lb.

Recommend starting springs weights:

G17 13lb

G19 13lb

G20 15lb

G21 13lb

G22 15lb

G23 13-15lb

G24 13lb

G31 15lb

G32 13-15lb

G34 13lb

G35 15lb

Spring setups:

G34 Production 13lb minus 4 coils

G35 Limited 15lb minus 3 coils

G17 Open 13lb minus 5 coils

G19C Carry 13lb minus 6 coils

Choosing Spring Weight. This part is not as simple. Selecting the proper weight spring is part of the weapon tuning and will depend on what your end goal is to be. The standard weight spring, in the case of Glock 34, of 17 pounds is used to match the average slide performance with industry standard loaded ammunition. This is to ensure maximum reliability for a weapon right out of the box. In your tuning, if you prefer a snappy slide that opens and closes more quickly, you would want to go with a heavier spring and ammunition that has a lighter weight bullet, such as 115gr. You want to make sure you don’t go too heavy on the spring or it could prevent the slide from going all the way to the rear. This would not allow for proper empty case ejection or failing to strip the next round from the magazine. If you would like a slide that is a bit slower and has more of a push feel then a snap, you would go with a lighter weight spring and a heavier bullet, such as the 147gr. Because of the added weight, the round is a little slowing in getting moving and this produces the push feel. Again, don’t go too light on the spring as this will allow the slide to hit the slide stop too hard and cause damage. For a Glock, a good test is to make sure the weapon is not loaded, pull the trigger and hold it. Point the barrel straight up and pull the slide all the way to the rear. Do not release the slide but slowly ease it up until it stops on its own. If it fails to go into battery, on its own, the spring is too light and may fail to chamber a round and go fully into battery.

One thing to remember once you do this, if you tune your weapon for the light bullet/heavy spring, firing rounds with a heavy bullet will not function the same. But, the other way around, firing a light bullet in a weapon tuned for the heavy bullet/light spring, could damage the weapon.

If you have a heavy spring most of that energy is displaced in the spring, resulting in a softer push feeling. If you have a weak spring only a small amount of the energy is displaced in the spring and the rest is displaced when the slide slam’s in to the frame.

If an egg is thrown at you can catch it one of 2 ways. You can just stick your hand out and let it smash in to your hand (weak spring). Or, you can draw your hands back with the egg and absorb the eggs energy without breaking it. This creates a more even disbursement of the energy (heavier spring).

Either way your hands absorbed the eggs energy. Catching it differently didn’t change it’s energy. It only changed how the energy displacement was felt by both you and the egg.

Changing spring weight doesn’t change the energy going in to your hands, Just how it’s felt or perceived. A light spring may feel snappier than heavy but there is less muzzle flip for a shorter duration. It also produces less push than a heavy spring; it is a short tap instead of a long push.

1. Try a little experimentation for yourself if you have not already. A few rounds with a 15# spring, a 17# spring and a 20# spring won’t hurt anything.

2. 1911s are NOT Glocks. They have different kinematics and differences in the way the forces are transfered through the frame, due to geometry and material properties. Even the mathematical models show this pretty convincingly. The friction on Glock pistols between the frame and slide is less than in a 1911, the bore is lower and the frame flexes more.

3. For 4 shooters, in a Glock 22, target acquisition, split times, perceived recoil, timing drills were always at least the same, usually better when the spring weights were increased. We went from 15# to 17# to 20#, 150 rounds each. Every shooter prefered the 20# spring. The round we used was Pro-Load 165 grain Tactical Grade (1100 fps chronographed) and a reload that duplicates it (165 Berry’s at 1100 fps). The spring weights were measured and we had to switch 1 of them to make sure the actual weights remained constant.

4. Frame battering, in major caliber Glocks, if you want your pistol to last past 50K rounds or so and REGULARLY use hot or Plus P ammo, then a bump in recoil spring weight will help the gun last longer and allow more reloads on the brass.

5. For the average shooter, I doubt most will ever shoot past 50K rounds on a gun, and the vast majority will be plinking rounds if they do.

6. A factory Glocks trigger (5.5 pounds) precludes any slight advantage that softer springs may have in medium power loads as far as timing and increased performance is concerned.

7. Buy a case of ammo or load 1000 rounds up and get yourself 3 spring weights and match your pistol and load to your shooting.

Connectors;

Everybody seems to want a 3.5lb connector because it is “THE BEST”. The truth of the matter is a 3.5lb connector delivers the lightest trigger pull BUT it also delivers the longest pull available. A lot of shooters confuse the 3.5 connector as a mushy system because it has so far to travel. It is hard for some shooters to grasp this theory because they are thinking less (3.5lb) is best? Try to think of it this way: You want to load a 55 gal drum into the bed of your truck.

1 You get a 30 foot plank and roll the barrel along effortlessly but it takes a long time to get the barrel in the truck. (3.5lb connector)

2 You get a 15 foot plank and roll the barrel along. This requires more effort but it doesn’t take much time to get there. (5lb connector)

3 You get a 5 foot plank and roll the barrel along. Man I noticed the effort here but the barrel was instantly in the truck! (8lb connector)

Factory connectors have less of an angle at the contact point with the trigger bar, less that stock = less resistance. The “+” connector has a greater angle, greater = more resistance. Difference either way is about 15 degrees.

Using a 3.5 lb. Trigger Connector: The factory trigger pull on a Glock is similar to shooting a staple gun. It has a long pull and a slight snap to it as the striker releases. The 3.5 lb. drop-in replacement connector gives an immediate improvement in trigger performance on the Glock pistol. The lighter trigger pull weight and the highly polished, nickel-plated surface make the pull smoother and more consistent. It helps the trigger reset more quickly for faster follow up shots and less temptation to jerk the trigger and compromise accuracy. The imported Glocks to Australia use an 8lbs trigger pull.

Combinations;

While doing my research, I came across this useful guide on trigger spring / connector combos. It was originally on this web site http://gunlovers.19.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=441

Actually, that link was quoting another article by T.R. Graham. Just want to be sure to acknowledge the original author.) I thought this might be useful for others:

5.5 lb coil trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector

This trigger setup generally gives a nominal pull weight of between 3.5 to almost 6 pounds, and has a somewhat long and “spongy” trigger feel in most guns. An excellent trigger combo for target use, but because of liability concerns it is not normally recommended for defensive applications.

5.5 lb coil trigger spring + 5.5 lb connector

Nominally breaking at 5.5 lbs, and by far the most commonly encountered of all the GLOCK triggers, this factory standard combination is the one that will have the most variation in overall pull weights between guns. Due to various lockwork tolerances a typical stock GLOCK “5.5 pound trigger” can and will break anywhere from 5.5 pounds to almost 8 pounds in a new and tight pistol.*

5.5 lb coil trigger spring + 8 lb connector

One of the least encountered of all the heavier GLOCK factory triggers, this trigger setup is also one of the least desirable, combining and magnifying the vague “spongy” feel of a stock 5.5 coil trigger spring with a stiff 8 pound “+” connector. Although mainly found on police issue GLOCKs, it is a poor choice for defense use, and this trigger setup is emphatically NOT recommended for competition use.*

8 lb NY1 (green) trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector

This almost bulletproof combination will generally give a nominal pull weight of between 4 to 6.5 pounds in most guns, providing a trigger with a much more defined takeup and a much crisper release point. Because the NY trigger spring is virtually unbreakable, this is an especially useful trigger setup for guns used for both competition and defense applications.*

8 lb NY1 (green) trigger spring + 5.5 lb connector

The most widely encountered of all the “heavy weight” GLOCK triggers, this combination gives a nominal pull weight of between 8 to 12 pounds, depending on the gun. Like with the 8 lb “NY” # 1 trigger spring with a 3.5 lb connector, the trigger takeup is firmer and more defined, and letoff and trigger reset is much crisper than the stock 5.5 lb trigger. Also, unlike the stock coil trigger springs, the “NY” trigger springs are virtually unbreakable in normal use, making this an excellent setup for hard duty or rough condition use.*

11 lb NY2 (orange) trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector

This combination feels much like a 8 lb “NY” # 1 trigger spring with a 5.5 lb connector, breaking at or about 9 to 15 pounds. Applications include rough duty or home defense use. Recommended only as a substitute when a standard “NY” # 1 spring cannot be installed.*

11 lb NY2 (orange) trigger spring + 5.5 lb connector

The super-heavy weight of GLOCK triggers, this combination averages from 11 to almost 20 pounds trigger pull. Of limited use, applications include home defense for people with young children, or with persons having especially large and strong hands.*

EITHER of the NY trigger springs + 8 lb connector

NOT approved by the factory. As well as giving a incredibly heavy trigger pull, installing these two components together can cause failure of the sear kickup on the trigger drawbar to drop down far enough to clear the firing pin lug with some guns. In effect, although the trigger will move back and forth, the pistol will not fire. Furthermore, if this happens the pistol cannot be field stripped to remove these components without first removing the firing pin mechanism from the slide.

Trigger Recipes

1) 8 lb NY1 (green) trigger spring + 3.5 lb connector. This almost bulletproof combination will generally give a nominal pull weight of between 4 to 6.5 pounds in most guns, providing a trigger with a much more defined takeup and a much crisper release point. Because the NY trigger spring is virtually unbreakable, this is an especially useful trigger setup for guns used for both competition and defense applications.

2) For a 5-6 lbs trigger it would be very easy. For a true 6 lbs spring use the factory springs and connector. For a 4-5 lbs spring either use our connector or trigger spring with the factory firing pin spring. It is not an exact science but going heavier is always easier than going lighter.

3) Here’s a suggestion that may prove somewhat controversial: Use a 4 lb connector (Glock works has them) and get yourself a NY #1 trigger module.

4) Lone Wolf 3.5 connector

Lone Wolf Ultimate Trigger Stop

Lone Wolf 4 lb striker spring

Lone Wolf 6 lb trigger spring

Polish the trigger bar “birds head” flat and edge where it contacts the connector also the raised angled edge where it contacts the firing pin safety and the “kick up” edge where it engages the striker leg. Polish the leading edge of the firing pin safety and the face. Polish the face of the striker leg.

Squirt a little “Flitz” between all bearing surfaces of the trigger system. (everything you polished) Keep it there for a few hundred rounds then clean all the parts and check the bearing surfaces. They should be lapped in completely. If so, replace the Flitz with a small amount of quality grease or oil. If not, add a little more Flits and check it again in a couple hundred rounds.

Special note: You can use this recipe with any connector, 3.5/5/8. Try them all and pick the one best suited to your style shooting

For rough tuning try different standard weights. For fine-tuning, take a spring slightly heavier than you prefer and trim it until it is just right, this is a trial and error process.

5) The fulcrum trigger will indeed lower the trigger pull though. Installing a 3.5 connector w/ ny trigger spring will make reset better and polishing the firing pin and replacing the firing pin spring will shorten reset.

6) The heavier trigger spring will lighten the trigger a good bit, particularly during takeup. The lighter connector doesn’t change takeup at all but will make the break lighter. It will also tend to make the break “mushier”. Some folks don’t really notice the “mushy” or don’t have a problem with it.

Things to look out for;

If you reduce the poundage you will increase wear on other components such as the lower barrel lugs where they make contact with the vertical impact surface. The process of extraction and ejection are altered in fact that is how one might tell they need to replace their springs when you see the casing being thrown into another time zone.

The relationship with magazine springs and followers can affect how well the pistol feeds and is often referred to as the primary cause of malfunctions. On the flip side, running your gun in a dirty environment, or wanting to insure your gun cycles reliably, some folks recommend raising the poundage to 17-18 lbs. Duty guns.

Competitors tune their recoil springs as mentioned for soft ammo using the idea of managing the recoil so they get back on the target faster. At this point they add a little weight so they might reduce muzzle flip.

You can play with these ideas along with downloading your ammo but the standard weight of 16 lbs for recoil springs and practicing will likely be better for you than tinkering and losing confidence in your pistol.

Peening happens because the frame flexes under recoil allowing the locking block to move upwards and hit the slide.

The most common approach to dropping trigger pulls is to replace the factory firing pin spring with a lighter unit. Unfortunately this makes the gun sensitive to primer hardness. Run hard primers with a light firing pin spring, you will get misfires. If you can always control what ammunition goes into your gun by choosing only ammunition that uses federal soft primers.

Explaining Pre-travel, Reset and Over-travel

1.Pre-travel. Pre-travel is the amount of ‘slack’ that must be taken up before the full weight of the trigger begins. Some pre-travel may give the user the ability to feel the trigger prior to discharge, it also increases the length of pull, which may add some safety margin.

2.Overtravel. Overtravel is the amount that the trigger is free to move after the point at which it activates. In most applications, minimal overtravel is consdiered advantageous as it prevents any jarring caused by the trigger hitting a sudden stop after release. With self-loading firearms, overtravel considered detrimental because it increases the reset distance.

3.Reset. Reset is the distance the trigger must travel forward (as pressure is released) before the trigger is ready to be fired again. Reset is not a concern in single-shot firearms, but in self-loaders where a fast follow-up shot may be desirable, a short reset is preferred.

In conclusion;

As with any modifications or gunsmithing tips, take them with a grain of salt and do your own research.

What I would like to achieve is a 5 pound trigger pull to bring it down from the 8 pound factory weight. Essentially a tactical trigger system, not as light as a competition trigger but not as heavy as a duty trigger where you end up missing the target. Have a medium trigger pull and a short reset using a Zev Industries model ZT-STD-D-9-TAC as a base to work from, being made from CNC billet aluminium. Then play around with a 14 pound recoil spring, Ghost 3.5 lbs tactical connector and Light New York trigger spring and see what happens.

Amendment’s;

Found out some more information since writing article. I will be using a full fulcrum kit. The trigger is billet aluminium and not polymer. It’s also three times wider, better for accuracy. Will also need a 9mm trigger kit to use in a converted 40cal as the ejector pin is slightly different in a 9mm compared to a 40.

Glockworx Triggers

http://www.glockworx.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3688

Ghost Connector Tactical 3.5 lbs

http://www.ghostinc.com/category/50_tactical/

NY trigger Spring

http://www.rockyourglock.com/custom/TriggerSprings/GLO-7405BK2.htm

Links

Anarchangel Blog – How to make a Glock not Suck

http://anarchangel.blogspot.com.au/2005/03/how-to-make-glock-not-suck.html

Modding the Glock – By Duane Thomas

https://www.usconcealedcarry.com/ccm-columns/features/modding-the-glock/

Glock Tech – Recoil Springs, guide rods, Connectors

http://www.custom-glock.com/glocktech.html

Recoil Springs

http://www.gunsprings.com/index.cfm?page=items&cID=1&mID=5#109

Spring Tech

http://www.custom-glock.com/springtech.html

Triggers – Pull Weight, NY Triggers

http://www.gundigest.com/tactical-gear-articles/tactical-military-arms-blog/range-report-glock-new-york-trigger

http://www.boatmanbooks.com/samplelwglocks.html

http://vickerstactical.com/tactical-tips/trigger-pull-weight/

Barrel Comparison

http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1420767

http://glock.pro/glock-pistols/1764-barrel.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU83fh6XoYA

Glock Gen 3 vs Gen 4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtS59trmk3Q

Zev Tech trigger installation

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iawkkWSHioQ&feature=plcp

Australian Glock Importer Parts

C-More sights and mounts

http://www.dillonprecision.com.au/c/66/more-sights.html?osCsid=27a30b1600b69a2c7e80f319ddf1e33a

Trijicon sights

http://www.urbanconquest.com.au/

Zev Technologies and Lonewolf

http://www.hyperfire.com.au/

Glock Parts

http://glockproducts.com.au/

http://survivalarms.com.au

Trigger Design

http://firearmsdesigner.com/?p=504

GFJ Firearms (special thanks for all the advice and help)

http://www.gfjcustomfirearms.com/

Urban Survival Training

i started putting this together many years ago and my health went down hill and this was as far as I went with it.

Module 1 Urban Survival

Why teach “survival” in the city?

Catastrophes vs. disasters

This is about your SURVIVAL, not volunteering

Priorities for human survival

Shelter construction

Fire making

Signalling

Equipment and supplies

Social implications of disasters

Personal security concerns

Complete loss of civil infrastructure

Minimal or no police, fire or EMS response

No electricity, municipal water, communications

Transport of fuel / food is severely impaired

Public safety agencies will be overwhelmed

Recovery is long term (over 30 days)

Disaster V. Catastrophe

Disasters are short term

Make do for 3-4 days until help arrives…”

Catastrophic events are long term

Katrina-scale hurricane, tsunami, earthquake

Major terror attack, nuclear detonation, dirty bomb

No help is coming soon, “you are on your own”

What the military survival schools teach:

Seven Priorities For Survival

“Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst”

Positive mental attitude

First Aid / Sanitation

Shelter

Signaling

Fire

Water

Food

Situational awareness, basic knowledge and

a “survivor’s mindset” enable you to cope effectively

STOP Calm down, and size up your situation…

THINK Anticipate which hazards are most likely

Take stock of materials and resources around you

OBSERVE Orient yourself to your surroundings

PLAN Select equipment and supplies appropriately

ACT! Execute your plan, evaluate progress, adjust, “party on.”

PREPAREDNESS

Have an evacuation kit ready at all times

Don’t presume that a disaster will be short-term

Pack essentials first, then consider comfort items

In real emergences, forget last-minute purchases

Plan for more supplies than you “think” you may need

Inspect / renew your supplies each spring and fall

Provide entertainment for young children.

SIX STEPS TO PROBLEM SOLVING

Size Up Your Situation

Determine Objectives (stay or evacuate?)

Identify Resources (either stored supplies or salvaged materials from your surroundings)

Evaluate Options (use the safest way)

Plan (use your head)

Act…Improvise and overcome

FIRST AID AND SANITATION

Maintain personal and family health

Prompt treatment reduces infection risk

Sanitation reduces risk of disease vectors

Water borne illnesses, diarrhoea

Major cause of dehydration

Increases your survivability!

Disaster Injury Risk Factors:

Tool / equipment hazards, risk of hand, eye, head injuries, electric shock, chemical burns

Human factors stress / fatigue

Structural instability

Trauma risk, falls, building collapse potential

Terrain, loose rock, fallen limbs, wet or insecure footing, risk of falls, puncture wounds and lacerations from debris.

Disaster Contamination:

Stagnant surface water

Mosquito breeding

Contaminated flood waters

Sewage treatment system overflow

Petroleum, industrial, agricultural chemical contamination

Airborne contaminant plumes

Smoke, dust, toxic gases,

or radioactive fallout.

SHELTER

Protection from the elements

Wind and rain resistant

Insulation from cold

The “Stay or Evacuate” Decision

If evacuation is not mandatory, the same safety rules

for entering a structure apply to using your home as shelter

DO NOT OCCUPY IF:

There is structural damage

(6 sides of the “box” are not plumb)

Utilities cannot be controlled

Structure was damaged in a fire

DO NOT occupy a floor that has been flooded,

micotoxins from molds are respiratory hazard!

EVACUATION PLANNING

Best to relocate with friends or relatives outside of affected area

Don’t rely on government-run shelters

They are an “option of last resort” for those unable to evacuate

Evacuation route selection is important

Make sure your vehicle can carry essentials

A huge “bug-out” vehicle is a handicap on crowded roads

It uses more fuel, which may be expensive / scarce in an emergency.

Don’t plan on fuel being available en route

In normal times always keep your gas tank at least half full

Upon warning an event is imminent, conserve fuel, keep tank ¾ full

Carry extra fuel containers outside the vehicle

EVACUATE OR STAY?

Population of the area

Propensity to self-evacuate, overwhelmingly by automobile

Wide distribution of evacuation destinations,

Perceived vulnerability to terror attack, and anticipation of multiple attacks

Result:

A large-scale, chaotic mass self-evacuation should be anticipated.

SHELTER IN PLACE

Critical facilities that cannot evacuate (hospitals, EOCs) must continue to operate

Necessary if fallout/contamination would arrive before evacuation can be completed

Fallout Shelters will be needed to protect against high level radiation/detonation

Shelter-in-place (not necessarily Fallout Shelter) near RDD/very low level

Shelter stay may range from a few days to 2 weeks.

Authorities outside affected area can organize rescue/evacuation effort

Shelter occupants may be exposed and/or contaminated.

Necessary if operations can not be transferred or if staff, patients or clients cannot evacuate

Necessary if needed to support operations of other response agencies

Must have Radiological Monitoring & Exposure Control capabilities

Critical Facilities may be used to shelter families of the staff

Critical Facilities will not be used to shelter the general public.

DECONTAMINATION after a flood or attack

start immediately, even if you don’t know what the agent is.

EXPEDIENT FIELD DECONTAMINATION

If you are contaminated:

Remove everything, including jewelry

Cut off clothing normally removed over the head

Place contaminated clothing in plastic bag, tie closed

Wash your hands before using them to shower

Flush entire body with cool water

Blot dry with absorbent cloth

Put on clean clothes

Avoid use of affected areas, to prevent re-exposure

If professional help arrives, report to responders

for thorough decontamination and medical assessment.

Sheltering at Home During an Emergency

For using a building without working utilities as shelter

Exhaust – candles, camp stoves, lanterns, generators,

heaters, charcoal grills, all generate carbon monoxide

and must not be used indoors!

Open flame – above ignition sources

must never be left unattended!

Fuel – most of the above require flammable fuels

to operate, which must be stored outdoors.

Use Fire Marshal approved fuel containers

Improvised Emergency Shelters

As in all real estate, most important is location:

Avoid low spots with poor drainage

Seek a gently sloped area so that surface water drains away

Sheltered from prevailing winds

Away from bodies of water (attracts insects and animals)

Insulated from direct contact with ground, rock,

or concrete, which conducts away body heat.

Avoid as shelter:

Areas around downed utility lines

In or near culverts

Within the “collapse zone” of a damaged building

(maintain 2:1 ratio of distance away to building height)

Improvised Shelters:

Sheds

Tents

Tarps

Vehicles

Don’t disable a good car!

Remove car batteries to power communications and

shelter lighting only from cars that do not start

If a car starts reserve it for emergency evacuation, or

Use it as a “battery charger”

Salvage lighting, remove dome lights, tail lights,

trunk lights, etc. & with at least 36” of wires.

Position batteries in shelter; attach wires & lights

As batteries discharge, replace with new batteries

or recharge batteries.

Emergency Shelter Materials:

Salvage building materials from debris or

from damaged structures only when it can be done safely

Plastic sheeting

Roofing paper and shingles

Siding, plywood

Chain link fence

Lumber

Carpeting

Wire, rope, and fasteners

Build Your Shelter In Layers

Structural framing: lumber, plywood, fencing, metal

Fasteners: reinforce structural connections with nails, wire or rope ties, wooden spikes

Water and wind proofing: plastic sheeting, tarp, shingles, roofing paper

Insulation: drywall, leaves, tree branches, carpeting, (may also be used as ballast to hold water/wind proofing layer in place)

SIGNALLING

Day: Mirror flashes – best daylight signal device

Smoke

Brightly colored cloth flag / panel (VS-17)

ICAO surface-to-air signals

V Require assistance

X Need medical assistance

Y Yes – affirmative

N No – negative

I am proceeding in this direction

Night: Flashing strobe light

Fire

Signal flares

Sound, i.e. whistle, siren, vehicle horn

FIRE:

Maintains body temperature

Great morale booster

Deters wild animals and insects

Boils water

Cooks food

Used as day (smoke)

or night (light) signal

FIRE MAKING METHODS

Matches or lighter

Flint and steel (Doan Machinery Corp. Fire Starter)

Use cotton ball and petroleum jelly as tinder

Battery and steel wool

Fresnel lens

WATER SUPPLY

Minimum for drinking

1 gallon per person, per day

More water is needed for

Cooking and food preparation

Personal hygiene, sanitation and decontamination

Store a two week supply as minimum

Food grade containers with screw caps

Away from direct sunlight

EMERGENCY WATER SOURCES

Captive water in household hot water tank and interior plumbing is OK

Filter cloudy water to remove particulates, using an EPA-rated filter

with a pore size ≤ 1 micron, then:

Disinfect with Clorox (6% sodium hypochlorite) add 8 drops of Chlorox

bleach per gallon if clear, 16 drops if cloudy, let water stand 15 minutes before use

Or boil vigorously for 15 minutes

Store potable water in clean containers.

All natural sources (from springs, ponds, rivers or streams)

must be boiled or chemically disinfected.

Chemical disinfection or boiling – Kills bacteria and viruses

Doesn’t remove particulates or chemical pollutants

Filtration – Coffee filters, etc. remove gross particulates only

EPA-rated filters (pore size smaller than 1 micron) are needed

to remove bacteria, viruses and Giardia cysts, but don’t remove chemical pollutants.

Distillation is the most effective method.

FOOD

Lowest of the seven survival priorities

Need is mostly mental, because we are used to eating regularly

Healthy people will do OK without food for a week or more, if they are well hydrated

Balanced nutrition is a important health factor for elderly and infants.

SHELF LIFE OF FOOD STORED IN THE HOME

Food in a refrigerator is safe for a day after the power goes off,

either use it in 24 hours or throw it away

Frozen food is safe if there are still ice crystals,

once thawed, cook and consume it within 24 hours

Next use non-perishables and dry staples

Canned foods are best for long term storage

(up to 4 years) but are heavy to transport and bulky to store

Dry packaged foods are easiest to transport

Choose foods requiring minimal preparation

Eat at least one balanced meal daily

Include nutritional supplements in supplies

Drink enough water.

EMERGENCY FOOD SUPPLIES

MREs, or Heater Meals

Prepared survival rations

Primitive survival methods:

Fishing

Hunting

Trapping

Foraging

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

Folding utility knife or multi-tool

Scout type, Leatherman, Swiss Army

Manual can opener, if not on utility knife

Sturdy fixed blade, such as 5″ Military knife

For chopping, digging, or as pry bar

Shovel, Gerber field spade or similar

Hand saw, #7947 Fiskars Woodzig Pruning Saw, folding 10″

Axe

ESSENTIAL SUPPLIES

Each person should have their own backpack of personal essentials

Flashlight

Portable radio

Extra batteries

First Aid Kit, (containing a first aid manual)

Personal medications and sanitation supplies

Cooking and eating utensils

Wool blanket or sleeping bag for each person

Sturdy shoes and extra socks

Rain gear

Change of warm clothing and underwear

Items for special needs, care of infants

DISASTER FINANCIAL PLANNING

Electronic transactions, account verifications may be impossible

Evacuate with enough cash for at least two weeks of essentials

Carry account numbers, contact addresses and telephone numbers for all important persons and institutions

Helping one’s unprepared friends and neighbours may prove expensive!

SOCIAL IMPLICATIONS OF DISASTERS

Cumulative psychological effects upon survivors

Evacuate or Stay? – Do you have a plan?

Where will you go? Is it safe to travel? Can you REALLY get there? Do you have enough resources to make it work?

Warn friends not to invite others to come and evacuate with them

They’ll overwhelm your limited resources!

Never allow family members to be separated

Even if it means waiting for later rescue and/or evacuation

The well prepared may be threatened by those who weren’t – get to know your neighbors NOW for a safer community later in case of a disaster

Make plans to ensure neighbourhood security/family protection

Post a guard in rotating shifts, to deter roving criminals or looters

Keep firearms and ammunition safely secured

Take a home firearms safety-protection course

Lessons from Hurricane Katrina

When help arrives, you may get it

“…….whether you want it or not.”

Don’t believe that all rescuers will respect your property

Relief workers from other States often don’t know local laws

Relief organizations have their own bureaucratic requirements that may conflict with your needs

Expect frustration over lack of communication and empathy by rescuers and local/State government.

COURSE SUMMARY:

Positive attitude – Stop Think Observe Plan

First Aid / Sanitation – Maintain proper hygiene, preserve family health, prevent illness or injury

Shelter – Protection from environmental hazards – use Time, Distance, Shielding

Signaling / Communication- be heard / seen

Fire – Warmth, light, food prep, water sterilization

Water – Prevent water-borne illnesses through filtration, chemical sterilization, boiling or distillation

Food – Eat at least one balanced meal daily, drink enough water, include nutritional supplements

Equipment- Flashlight, knife, saw, axe, shovel

Planning – Prepare a Kit, Make A Plan!

Module 2

Firearms Holster Proficiency

Course safety

Three fundamentals of gun control

Safety in the classroom

Safety on the range

Safety equipment

Legislation, Regulations and Rules

EQUIPMENT

What you need

Types of handguns used

Revolvers

Semi-automatic pistols

BASIC BALLISTICS

Range communications

Safe handling of handguns

Loading & unloading a handgun

Safe clearance of malfunctions

Safety checks on handguns

Basic reloading information

PRACTICAL COMPONENT

Module 3 Defensive Driving

Defensive driving is relevant, enjoyable, and will far improve your skills and ability levels. Young drivers are strongly encouraged to develop better on-road defensive driving skills and more solid techniques, but more experienced drivers also benefit enormously from advanced driver training, including the correction of old habits and improving judgement and reactions. This one-day Defensive Driving Course Level 1 course is suited to all drivers of regular passenger vehicles, including four-wheel drives and light commercial vehicles. The mix of practical and theoretical components of this advanced driver training session deliver actual on-road safety skills that underpin proactive driving.

The practical driving component of our Defensive Driving Program is conducted on wet roads at suburban speeds. It includes a variety of on road exercises including emergency braking, swerving and multiple direction changes.

The aim of these exercises is to educate drivers in:

A comprehensive open forum that exposes many well worn motoring myths and where we are most vulnerable in our driving habits. The open forum is a time for breaking down barriers.

Enlightening facts about tyre capabilities and the absolute necessity of understanding their limitations.

Practical simulated emergencies in a controlled environment on the bitumen. You do the driving.

Extensive correctional tuition in simulated emergencies in skid control/skid prevention/car control.

Practical simulated emergencies and skid control/skid prevention on an unsealed surface*.

Extensive correctional techniques for dirt driving*.

Explanations of vehicle dynamics and how they change according to the dirt surface.

Defensive driving guidelines that will help avoid “the other driver”.

*(Dirt component may be altered due to weather/track conditions – in the event of poor conditions an extension in bitumen surface training will be implemented).

The classroom component of this course covers basic road safety concepts and the key principals of defensive driving including:

Through practical driving exercises, become more ‘speed aware’, particularly in how the degree of vehicle control difficulty increases exponentially in relation to increases in vehicle speeds.

Develop an understanding of basic vehicle dynamics, in emergency situations

Learn to predict potential hazards, identify risky situations and minimise danger

Understand the importance of keeping your vision high and maintaining sensible safety margins around your vehicle at all times

Develop a positive and proactive attitude towards defensive driving

Module 4 Knife Skills

It has become increasingly clear that the world we live in is rapidly changing. Values that were once accepted as being the norm are no longer valid and the need to take control and responsibility for your own personal safety is now critical to individual survival. Violent crimes on the streets and inside of homes of the citizens that involve edged weapons are taking place on a daily basis. Awareness of personal safety issues are at the forefront of individuals everyday concerns and especially those who have families and work in occupations that put them in potentially risky situations.Nobody can expect criminals to do the right thing or for Government Agencies to be able to protect you from these people in times of social disorder, or in the instant that you life is threatened. Being proficient in some form of Tactical Knife Method is not an overreaction to the current state of the world or a product of unjustifiable paranoia, but more a small step in helping to guarantee yourself preservation and in turn, that of those in your care.

The rapid escalation of blade assaults on Australian streets, as well as the growing edged weapon problems emerging in areas of organised criminal activity, indicate that the use of the blade and other edged implements is on the increase and is now the weapon of choice amongst many career criminals, gang members, and even teenage groups, with the ease of availability and the ability to conceal these weapons making them attractive to those who have no regard for the laws of society.When it comes to teaching the concepts and techniques required to minimize potential injury by bladed weapon assaults, even the best martial arts generalist can’t be expected to have expert answers to such a specialist problem. In addition, it is a dangerous misconception to think that non knife specialists are in any way qualified to design concepts and techniques to be used against knife attacks, even if the attacker is someone who is untrained..

Module 5 Knife Defense

In this seven day intensive course you will be learn techniques from the highly respected and innovative combative systems.The extensive content covered in this course will take your edged, impact and improvised weapon skills to a whole new level. Learn how to defend against knife and stick attacks using both empty hand and improvised weapon defences. Learn how to utilise found items as edged weapons, short & long impact weapons and more!

Module 6 Hand to Hand

Level 1 – Foundation SkillsDay 1&2

Introduction, Isolation and Integration of Intercepting and Stabilising Skills

Forklift, Helmet, Dive, Arm Drag, 2 on 1 Escort, Wrist Weave, Seatbelt, Harness, Body Lock, Shake the Blanket, Under hook and Pike, The Triple Threat

Introduction to Resolution – The “S” Position, Arm Wrap and Knee Ride

Day 3

Resolution – above + back mount with rides, handlebar, resolution for cuffing

Integration of Day 1&2 skills against alive resistance during various drills including multiple subjects and confined spaces

Level 2 – Intermediate ApplicationsDay 4&5 Ground and Combative Applications including attached striking, clinch with cloth, ground recovery, clinch

Module 7 Medical

Field Medical training in Austere Environments

providing personnel with the skills, knowledge & attitude required to

undertake the initial or ongoing management of a range of life-threatening

medical emergencies, in a range of tactical situations & environments. Based on proven tactical medical practice

courses cover such topics as;

Introduction to tactical medical operations

Tactical Risk assessment & management strategies

Communications, leadership & decision-making

Phases of tactical care & scene management

Tactical medical equipment

Tactical patient assessment

Tactical trauma care

Tactical triage & evacuation techniques

Care through the barricade

Tactical emergency drills

Integrating with emergency services

Medical threat assessments

Module 8 Wilderness First Aid

Basic Wilderness First Aid (BWFA) (2 days – 16 hours) Fun, practical and loaded with scenarios this is the ideal introduction to the field of Wilderness Medicine for those playing in the outdoors. Wilderness First Aid (inc CPR) (3 days – 24 hours) This 3-day course covers the same material as the 2-day course as well as offering CPR and more scenario based teaching. A well rounded introduction to Wilderness First Aid for bushwalkers, climbers, paddlers and those who find themselves out and about. Advanced Wilderness First Aid (AWFA) (4 days – 32 hours) The AWFA course is an excellent starting point for serious recreational adventurers or those starting in the Outdoor Recreation/Education fields. Plenty of scenarios, CPR/EAR and a solid understanding of patient assessment sets you up for success.

Module 8 Defensive Tactics Course2 days full time

Content: Legalities, Force Continuum Techniques etc Baton Techniques Handcuff Techniques Pressure Point Control Techniques Joint Locks/Escort Techniques Blocks, Strikes & Kicks, Restraint and removal techniques.

This program presents in-depth information for instruction of operational personnel in empty hand defensive tactics, restraint & control, mechanical restraints, and intermediate force options with the expandable baton. The strategies presented are simple, practical and effective, and are designed for use by operational personnel in real world situations against real violence. Theory content covers threat assessment, interpersonal communication for conflict, understanding stress, lawful guidelines for use of force responses, human physiology, anatomy and biomechanics and fundamental combat principles and concepts. Practical content for empty hand component covers strategies for creating distance, escape countermeasures, strike theory, takedowns and ground work, low and high threat restraint and control strategies, fundamentals of weapons awareness and defence against multiple subjects. Mechanical restraints and baton components cover types of restraints and batons, carriage, lawful use and maintenance or equipment. Trainer content includes professional demeanour and presentation, safety in training, class formats and structure, using active and dynamic drills effectively, creating tactical blueprints and avoiding training scars, and general fitness for use of force incidents.

Module 9 Improvised weaponry

Tactical Shemagh, kubutons, improvised tools from everyday objects, tactical pens, Custom made SD Tools, short stick 21”, canes 36”.

Module 10 Blade introduction

Bevels – primary, secondary

Cuts – chop, push ,slice, whittle, tip cope, edge cope, draw, shearing, thrust

Grinds – flat, hollow, chisel, convex

Steels – stainless, carbon

Tempering – hardening

Parts – tang, clip, ridge line, ricasso, choil, belly, false edge, grind plunge

Grips – reverse, hammer, ice pick, fencers, sabre

Module 11 Lie Detection Techniques

Module 12 Bug out bags and EDC’s

Module 13 Home Security

Module 14 Self Defense Awareness

Module 15 Combative Anatomy

Module 16 Car Jacking Prevention

Module 17 Escape and Evasion

Module 18 Rape Prevention

Module 19 Pandemics

Module 20 IED Recognition

Module 21 Home Preps Test

Module 22 Vehicle Break in Prevention

Improvised Weaponry

You are the weapon. The items you hold are just the tools. This comes down to 1) intent, 2) strategy and 3) tactics. I was trying to explain the perception behind improvised weaponry to a mate, by firstly saying an Aikido proverb. (Hit someone with the biggest weapon you have, the ground.). Everything can be used as a weapon. Many people walk with their side next to a wall for protection, assuming that no one can attack them from the wall side. However this is an assumption, they are actually walking next to their attackers first weapon. A head can easily be pushed into a wall.This was demonstrated to me in kinetic fighting using padding up against the wall.

My second demonstration to my friend was to pick anything in the room and I said I will turn it into a weapon. He chose a welder. You can you the clamp end as a flail, the welding cord as a choke, the electrical cord as a trip, the unit itself as a blunt instrument to throw someone into it, set up a trap with water to cause electrocution.

Everything is a weapon becomes a mindfulness thought process. Walk into a room and see how many weapons you can find. Every flat surface, every sharp edge, every corner becomes a weapon. Its how you perceive them, how to use them as an application and how to manipulate the target into them. You therefore become the weapon.

Types of tools

These can include Penetrating, Slashing, Projectiles and Blunt Force Tools. A person who has the right motivation, talent and will to survive can employ almost any object as a weapon. Sometimes all you have left is your tactical creativity and your motivation and ability for thinking outside the box.

Custom made tools can be as an example surgical rubber tubing with a ball bearing or in the case of metal detectors a lead ball slipped into the end.

Think in terms of; Hard pointy things – all-metal pen, pocket knife, screwdriver, umbrella.

Hard blunt things – flashlight, wrench, bicycle U-lock, bicycle air pump, aluminum clipboard, tire thumper, walking stick or cane.

Sprays – OC/pepper/mace, hair spray, spray paint, bug spray, air freshener.

Flexible things – bicycle chain/lock combo, chain wallet, lanyard and keychain full of keys, short length of heavy duty rubber hose or tubing, heavy belt buckle on a belt.

Clothing – steel toed shoes or boots, hard camera case with a sturdy strap, hard hat (hold it with your hand and use edge or top to bludgeon opponent), gloves with hard plastic knuckle covering (like motocross gloves, or HD construction gloves). Cold steel do a good dvd using a sarong.

Objects with Weight or Mass: A heavy vase or small table can be slammed into the face or torso. Don’t merely toss the item, however. Keep it close to your body, then charge into and through your target.

Makeshift Shields: One physician shielded himself from a patient’s oncoming knife with his briefcase. Large, thick hardcover books also could fit this bill.

Stuff It: A pillowcase containing a hard-hitting object — a brass candlestick, giant ashtray, your defunct toaster — could leave a lasting impression on Mr. Rapist’s face.

Your Mind Is Among the Best of Self-Defense Weapons. “I think, therefore I am armed” I have this tattooed on me in latin. Be smart! Nothing beats preparedness and the ability to improvise. Keep these tips in mind:

Environmental Terrain: If immobilized from behind or lifted off the ground in a confined space (elevator, toilet, and kitchen), get one or two feet onto the edge of a countertop or any flat surface and shove off as hard as you can. You have padding behind you: your attacker! He will “eat” the crash landing.

Distraction: Buy yourself a moment, and then take control! A towel thrown over the eyes could work. So could dirt, sand, household products such as pepper aimed at the attacker’s face and eyes. In the 1995 film Copycat, Sigourney Weaver fights for her life with a serial killer on a restroom floor. Even with her hands chained together, she slashes him with a piece of glass, and then squirts shaving cream in his eyes. This distraction allows her to deliver a killer side kick and flee the restroom.

Practice = Preparation: Wherever you are, imagine you are suddenly ambushed. Give yourself three seconds to get a “weapon” in hand with the emotional and physical readiness to use it. Practice fashioning self-defense weapons wherever you are often until it becomes second nature.

Visualization: Picture yourself in scenarios like “Betty Jo Goes Ballistic.” See yourself fighting back, improvising self-defense weapons from your environment and fighting back with attitude.

Tactics – Anytime you walk into a room or sit down, immediately locate 3 improvised weapons within arm’s reach. Next locate ALL available exits. Sit with your back to/against the wall instead of the room and facing the door. Now you can be comfortable in the room but not before.

ALARM CLOCK- Swing by the power cord at the head and face

ASHES- Throw into the eyes

ASHTRAY- Smash at the temple, nose, throat, wrists, and base of skull

AXE/ HATCHET- Strike at the side and back of skull, backbone, above hips, and solar plexus

BALL BEARINGS- The larger types make great projectiles.

BARBED WIRE- Use as a garotte or rope around the arms or legs tightly

BASEBALL- Throw at enemy or smash vital areas

BASEBALL BAT- Spin it at enemy’s shins or sling at vital areas

BELT- Whip at the temples, jaw, chin, nose, neck, kidneys, and floating ribs

BEER CAN- If unopened, shake it up and pop the top in the face. Then rip can in the half and jab them in their face

BICYCLE- Pick it up by center of handlebars and back of seat. Turn it around fully and fling it, sprocket first in the face. Afterwards, deliver a kick in the groin.

BICYCLE CHAIN- Whip it as a flail striking at vital areas

BICYCLE PUMP – Use it as a nightstick or pour bleach into the pump and blow it in the face after hitting them

BLEACH- Throw some in their eyes and nose

BLENDER- Remove the blades from the blender and use it to slash them

BOILING WATER- Throw it in the face them hit them with the pot

BONE- If it’s the turkey, cattle-sized or bigger use as a club

BOOKS- Use large, hardcover flat books as a shield against knife and fist attacks or deliver blows to arms, neck, collarbone, head, and face.

BOOM BOX- Hit them in the head, face, solar plexus with it. Also makes a good shield against a knife

BOTTLE- Club opponent in the head or face or break it and stab him

BRICK- Tie a rope around the brick and swing it at them. Can also be thrown or smashed on the head.

BROOM- Use it like a bayonet, thrust handle portion into solar plexus, throat, and deflect knife attacks. Also straw end could be set on fire and jammed into the face.

CAMERA-Strike them in the head with the lens portion or if it has a huge zoom lens use it as a club.

CANDLE- Any candle 10″ or larger makes a good club.

CANE- A cane with a hooked handle can be used to beat the skull and hook the ankle, neck, or groin.

CANNED FOOD- Put the can inside a bag, sack, or sock. Tie the bag closed and use it as a club.

CAR ANTANNAE: Listen up, in particular women who walk alone in car parks! You can quite quickly break off a metal car antenna and use it to fend off one or more attackers in a whipping action. The strikes can be very painful and effective and will likely at the very least stun and discourage an attacker from continuing. Remember, often these predators are looking for an easy victim. If you prove to the attacker that you’ll be more trouble than your worth, he’s quite likely to discontinue the attack and seek out someone who will give him less trouble.

CARABINER- Use it a you would brass knuckles. Aim for the nose, jaw, ears, and hands.

CASE OF BEER- A 24 pack of beer also makes a good shield against fist and knife attacks.

CAT- If it’s not declawed throw the cat in their face (the cat will instinctively grab on their face with ten nice sharp claws) and then kick them in the groin.

CB RADIO MICROPHONE- Swing it at vital areas or use it as a garrote

CHAIN- Fold it double and swing it like a flail

CHAIR- Thrust chair legs into groin or solar plexus or it as a shield against a knife.

CIGAR- If lit burn cigar into any exposed skin especially the face, necks, hands, or groin.

CLEANER- Throw the Comet or Ajax cleaner in the eyes.

CLEAVER- Grab a nice big one and chop away at their face, throat, arms, hands, and legs.

CLOTHESLINE- Use as a garrote to choke them.

CLOTHESPIN- Pinch at the nose, ears, fingers, genitals, or breasts.

COAT- Use it as a shield against knife, club, or chain attacks.

COFFEE- Throw the hot coffee in their face first then smash them in the temple or solar plexus with the mug.

COINS- Put them in a sock and swing it like a blackjack.

COMB- Use a steel rat-tail comb and use the teeth to slash the face or the tail to stab the throat or face.

CROWBAR- Strike with the claw size at the temple, face, throat, and hands.

DARTS- Throw at them or clench in your fist and punch away.

DEODORANT SPRAY- Spray in their eyes or put a lighter in front to make a flame thrower.

DIRT- Throw it in their eyes

DIVING KNIFE- Use blade to chop, stab, or slash and club them with the handle

DRAIN CLEANER- Throw it in there eyes, nose, or mouth.

DRAWER- Fling it at them like a frisbee.

DRINKING GLASS- Use the bottom to hit them in the nose, teeth, jaw, collarbone, and temple.

DRILL-Drill at their face, eyes, neck, ear canals, hand, and groin.

ELECTRIC FAN- If plugged in, direct at the face, fingers, or groin. Can also be used as shield against knives and clubs.

EXTENSION CORD- Use it as a garrote or to electrify metal objects.

EYEGLASSES- Fold them up in your fist and use them like brass knuckles, use corners to strike temples.

FACE TOWEL-Tie a bar of soap inside it and use it as a club.

FAN BELT- Whip it at his head, face, hands, and chest.

FILE- A needlepoint file can used to pierce the eyes, throat, neck, solar plexus, under the chin, or up the nostrils.

FILLETING KNIFE- Slash at the hands, wrists, face, and neck.

FINGERNAILS- Claw at the face and neck or gouge at eyes and throat.

FINGER NAIL FILE- for stabbing

FIRE EXTINGUISHER- Discharge it in his face or use it as a smoke screen. To make a spear gun with a carbon dioxide extinguisher, stick a sharp rod in the tube and discharge it. Extinguishers also make a great club.

FISHHOOK- Hook into and tear at any exposed skin especially face, neck, and hands.

FLASHLIGHT-Use the big D-cell flashlights as a club, a koppo stick/kubotan or to blind an attacker if the beam is bright enough.

FLASHLIGHT BATTERIES- Fill a sock with D-cell batteries and use it as a club.

FORK- Stab at the face, neck, solar plexus, hands, and groin.

FROZEN FOOD- Frozen food is usually hard as a rock. In a real life case a man was bludgeoned with 10 pounds of frozen salami producing a wound requiring 55 stitches. Similarly, at a barbeque someone getting slugged with a frozen T-bone steak will cost him a couple of teeth.

GARBAGE CAN LID- Use it a shield against attacks or throw it like a frisbee against their shins.

GLASS- Take a 3 inch wide shard, wrap the hilt with cloth and stab them under the jaw.

GLOVES- Fill it with rocks, gravel, sand, or pennies and slug them with it.

GOLF CLUB- Use it as a club.

GUITAR- Use it a club or take out strings and strangle them with the strings.

HAIRBRUSH- Rake bristles across their eyes. Use the sides to strike the heck and temples. Hammer at the skull and ribs with the handle.

HAIR SPRAY- See Deodorant Spray

HAMMER- Use it as a club, except strike claws first. This delivers more pounds per square inch of pressure resulting in greater damage.

HARD HAT- Use it as a shield or strike him with the visor.

HATPIN- Shove it in his eyes or ear canal.

HEAT GUN- If it’s on, direct towards any exposed skin or hair then hit them with gun.

HOE- Lunge into their throat or stomach.

HOSE- Use it as a whip or if it has a nozzle a flail.

HOT BEVERAGES- thrown at an attacker.

HUBCAP- Use it a shield or smash it flat on their head.

ICEPICK- Stab them in the eyes, top of skull, throat, or kidneys. Also can rammed up their noses or ear canal.

INSECTICIDE- Spray it in their eyes, nose, and mouth.

IRON- If its hot makes a good shield. If cool give a blow to the head with point or swing it by the cord.

JACK- Use it as a club; swing at the head, chest, kneecaps, and neck.

KEYS- Slip it between your fingers and jab it in their eyes and face.

KNITTING NEEDLES- Jab at their face, hands, and chest.

LAMP- While keeping the lamp plugged in charge at them bulb first.

LIGHT BULB- Clasp in hand and hit them in the face with it.

LIGHT SWITCH: Darkness is a brilliant weapon under the right circumstances. If you are attacked by night, the light switch can be the best “weapon” for defense. Simply turn the lights off. Darkness is a tactical advantage for you, after all you know the layout of your own house while your attacker does not. You also know where you have other weapons and escape routes. Darkness could also simply give you the time needed to escape. Also, darkness will increase the blinding effectiveness of your flashlight if you are carrying one.

LIGHTER FLUID- Squirt it on their skin and clothes then throw lit flame on them.

LUG WRENCH- Throw it at them or bludgeon their head with it.

MIRROR- Use the face mirror as a club.

MOUTHWASH- Gargle some and spit it in their face then hit them with the bottle.

NEWSPAPER- Roll it up, swat at incoming punches and jab with ends in groin, ears, eyes, throat, and solar plexus. Also newspaper could be rolled, flexed and held like brass knuckles to strengthen punches.

OVEN CLEANER- Spray it on their skin, eyes, and face.

PADLOCK- Clasp in a fist and use as brass knuckles or even more lethal attach a rope or chain to the lock and swing at their head, face, and hands. A padlock and chain is a street gutter favorite.

PAINT- Spray or throw a bucket full in the face.

PEN- Jab at eyes, throat, ear canals, and temple. Pencils and penlights can be used the same way.

PEPPER- Sling it in their face then hammer the head with the shaker.

PICTURE FRAME- Slam it on his head or throw it.

PILLOW- Use it to block a knife or fist attack.

PING PONG PADDLE- Deliver a chop to the neck, head, and collarbone with the edge.

PISS- You could piss in a cup and throw in his eyes or piss in a bottle and throw it at him. Also there’s the favorite of squatters- a big bucket of weeks old piss!

PLIERS- Pinch and crush the lips, nose, balls, or the windpipe (this can kill!)

POKER- Use it a club striking the head and limbs. Can also be used as a bayonet.

POOL BALL- Throw them at their face.

POOL CUE- Use as lance, heavy end first. Ram into stomach, solar plexus then swing at head and ribs.

PURSE- Load with heavy objects and swing like a mace or use to block attacks.

RAKE- Swing at the face

RAZOR BLADE- Slash at face, wrist, and neck.

ROCKS- See Bricks

ROLLING PIN- Makes a great club.

RUG- Use it like the coat before mentioned or pull a Tom and Jerry, jerk it out from under their feet.

SANDER- Charge at them and attempt to abrade any exposed skin.

SAUCER- Strike face and neck. Holding edgewise.

SAW- Slash at the face, neck, and hands.

SCISSORS- Jab at the eyes, neck, and temple.

SCREWDRIVER- Hold handle to stab at a vital areas or hold shaft for clubbing.

SHIT- They could be distracted if you could take a shit in a plastic bag and throw it in their face. Good reason to pick up after the dog.

SHOES- Throw or use as a club, especially if they are high heel. Strike in it head, face, and neck with the high heel.

SHOVEL- Use blade to thrust and chop then deliver a blow with the flat side.

SIDEWALK- Throw them on the concrete and then smash their head repeatedly in it.

SKATEBOARD- Strike at his temple, nose, throat, hands, collarbone, and shins.

SKI POLES- Use as a lance or strike at head, arms, and chest with side and downward blows.

SMOKING PIPE- Holding like a gun, jab it in the eyes or grasp the stem and hammer on sensitive areas.

SOLDERING IRON-Clench it in your hand and drive it into the face, neck, solar plexus, and hands.

SPEAKERS- Pick up and strike at his head, chest, or use as a shield.

SPOON- Use it to glove eyes or sharpen it into a knife.

STEAK KNIFE- Use it to slash at wrists and neck, stab at chest, or hammer blows into the shoulder and head.

STAIRWAY- If going up the stairs pretend to trip, kick him HARD in the groin backwards, and leap on him feet first. If going down, suddenly drop down on your heels and jerk his feet out from under him high.

TEETH- Attack at fingers, ears, nose, lips, throat, and sinus.

TELEPHONE- Detach it from the plug and swing it like a bola.

TENNIS RACKET- Give a chopping blow with the edge or jab handle into the abdomen or throat.

TOILET BRUSH- Brush end into eyes and use end of handle to hammer blows to the jaw.

TRASH CAN LID- used as a shield.

UMBRELLA- Jab at the throat, face, and solar plexus.

WALL- Grab his head and ram it into the wall.

WATCH- Slip over your knuckles and punch away.

WINDOW SHADE ROLLER- Use it as a club or a lance.

WRENCH- The bigger it is, the better. Strike at the head, ribs, neck, groin, and kneecaps.

YO-YO- Throw at their head, swing or hammer at vital areas with it.

Urban Survival

A mate suggested doing an urban survival section. After my fall he said I was living an urban survival scenario after having an injury and trying to move homes and sort out assistance.I had originally started out in urban survival before getting into bushcraft. No one seemed very interested so I deleted many of the articles from websites. Ill try posting up a few articles that Ive had in my files for many years and see how it goes. I have the time at the moment to re-edit many of them.

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