Just some of my collection that Ill be doing reviews on later in the year.
Month: December 2021 (Page 5 of 7)
I dont own a television or radio and 2020/2021 has been a year of I wont say covid Ill say the year of online courses for me when I havent been able to train in martial arts or other courses in person and had to cancel many. Ive been questioned by a few people as to is it relevant in Australia. The course starts out in different seasons to Australia which made it difficult for me, on top of being dyslexic and on pain killers, much of the way through the course, but I persisted. Id have to say I got behind due to lock downs and being stuck in areas with no internet reception and has taken a while to catch up, which I think was a blessing is disguise. Ive had to cram more and have had to work my way backwards through webinars and thats given me a greater appreciation for plant ID.
In the Eastern states which is where I am at the moment Ive came across very few European Trees or plants but back home where there were a lot of German settlers there are trees from Europe every where. The reason I did the course although Im in Australia and it may not be as relevant here, is that I want to take my Bushcraft Skills to another level. UK vs USA vs AUD bushcraft each being very different. I take bits and pieces from every where. Preferring US styles but I grab a lot from the UK too. The main difference being Aussies. Its a tree Its in the area Im in can I use it if not can I do something different with it. In the UK and US whatever trees are in that area have a specific use and theyre straight. No straight trees in Australia, atleast very few. Ive gotten a lot out of the course even though its not designed for dyslexics and Ive had to learn by then re-researching the topics and making cheat sheets to get the information into my head.
How relevant is it to Australia. If you expect to go out and find half the species talked about then not. However if you want to learn the basics of Identifying trees and plants then its very much worth it. What sort of bushcrafter are you and Im beginning to realize theres many different forms of bushcraft. Its what ever you make it. I want to take my skills to a different level and the more I learn about bushcraft the more I realize just how much more I have left to learn.
Im trying to adapt everything I learn from UK and US courses to apply to australia. An example are Feather sticks, not something youll ever use in Australia due to the type of timber here. More oil in the plants and harder grain timber for fire starting. However feathering sticks (Pine here) is a great way to develop knife skills and I may never get a chance to travel overseas but its nice to know Im developing the skills that if I ever get that chance I havent just thrown away a skill set by saying it doesnt apply here.
There are no courses like this in OZ that go into the amount of detail especially from a bushcraft point of view. The skills you leave with in plant identification are well worth the months and months of study. I have developed a new appreciation of latin which is something I never thought Id say. Let me ask what do you want to get out of the skills your learning and what level do you wish to reach. Youll certainly never look at trees the same way again. Youll learn how to identify trees and plants not only by the overall look but by the bark, flowers, sepels, stems, cones, leaves, buds, colours of stems, etc etc. On top of uses and poisonous plants. A Highly recommended course, worth looking into.Im am constantly looking around trying to identify the family and genus names of trees and plants now. The course has given me much confidence when it comes to furthering my studies on Australian Bush foods next year.
Ive been trying to get more into the traditional side of bushcraft and started by purchasing a bedroll made by Tim at Blues Bushcraft Boutique in the UK. Made from traditional Cotton Duck Canvas it measures in at for the extended size 1800mm long by 900mm folded wide and lined with wool fabric and double stitched throughout.Its designed to be clipped together to form a bag with heavy duty press studs. Very well made and Tim is great to deal with. The bedroll even came with a pillow case made from the same material.This is just a first look Ill be testing this over the next few months but as you can see from the pictures its already been Staffy Approved.
Blues Bushcraft Boutique
What I like to keep in my belt mounted Possibles Bag. I change around my belt system and belt pouch quite a lot to suit what Im doing but Im gradually settling down on what I carry consistently. Mainly fire starting and cordage articles.
1) Starting with an old tobacco tin for making char cloth. Within this I have a small bag of premade char cloth and several bees wax based fire tinders.
2) A Fallkniven DC4 sharpening stone.
3) An Exotac 4 hour Nano Candle.
4) 20 meters of size 36 Bankline.
5) 2 meters of 3.5mm lawn mower starter cord to firebows. Has more grip than paracord.
6) Trekker Butane Lighter. This is more wind proof and lasts longer than normal Bic lighters.
7) Several pieces of flint and a Titanium striker for traditional fire lighting and to have atleast 3 ways to start a fire.
8) A Bearing block made by Beaver Bushcraft
9) A fire Striker also made by Beaver Bushcraft
10) Size 14 Sail Needle as part of my 10cs taped to the lid of the tin.
11) and lastly a Dragons Breath Ferro Rod attached to cordage to go from my belt to pocket.
Fire Buddy Beaver Bushcraft
Fire Striker Beaver Bushcraft
Bankline
https://www.survivalsuppliesaustralia.com.au/Bank-Line-Size-36-Spool-37mtr?b7=z1
Trekker lighter
https://www.survivalsuppliesaustralia.com.au/UST-Trekker-Stormproof-Lighter-Orange?b7=z1
sharpening stone
https://www.survivalsuppliesaustralia.com.au/Fallkniven-DC4-Sharpening-Stone?b7=z1
Ferro Rod
https://www.survivalsuppliesaustralia.com.au/Dragons-Breath-Ferrocerium-Rod-Striker?b7=z1
Badest bee Fire Fuses
https://www.survivalsuppliesaustralia.com.au/Baddest-Bee-Fire-Fuses-3-Pack?b7=z1
Sail Needle
https://www.survivalsuppliesaustralia.com.au/Sail-Needle-Size-14?b7=z1
I’ve always had trouble with fire bows so I started to put together the following information. I was shown a great technique by Jake Cassar, that involved standing instead of kneeling. By using a long stride, a waist height spindle and a longer bow. Along the way I discovered the secret to fire bows. Hard work, determination and persistence and when you begin to become frustrated, take a break.
Fire Bow Materials
British/American Woods
Bow Drill Woods
Alder
Aspen
Baobab
Birch
Cedar
Cherry Root
Clematis
Cotton Wood
Cypress
Elder
Elm
Fir
Hazel
Hibiscus
Chestnut
Ivy*
Juniper
Lime*
Maple
Marula
Oak
Pine
Popular
Wild Rose
Saguaro
Sotol*
Spruce
Sycamore*
Sassafras
Willow*
Yucca
Best Woods *
Hand Drill Woods
Alder
Aspen
Baobab
Bamboo
Black boy
Buddleia
Burdock
Cattail
Corkwood
Cottonwood
Confetti Tree
Elder
Hibiscus
Chestnut
Fever Berry
Marula
Mangetti
Mullein
Pine
Kurrajong
Sage Brush
Saguaro
Sotol
Sycamore
Fig
Teasel
Trumpet Thorn
Willow
Hearth/Base Board Woods
Alder
Aspen
Baobab
Black boy
Burdock
Cedar
Clematis
Corkwood
Confetti Tree
Cottonwood
Elder
Maple
Hibiscus
Chestnut
Marula
Grewip
Combretum
Fever Berry
Mullein
Pine
Kurrajong
Saguaro
Sotol
Sycamore
Sycamore Fig
Trumpet Thorn
Willow
Aussie Woods
Grass Tree / Black boy – Drill and hearth
Poinciana
Morton Bay Fig
Lantana
Pepper Tree – Drill and Hearth
Poplar
White Cedar
Black Wattle
Cottonwood
Mangrove
Tea Tree
Mango
Blue Gum
Crab Apple
Bougainvillea Vine
Aussie Native Tinder Materials
Inner bark of the Stringy Bark Tree
Eucalyptus rubida (candle bark)
Inner core of Aloe
Inner core of Grass Tree
Heads of Cattails
Trouble Shooting Guide
Use Drill and Hearth woods of the same type or if different of similar hardness. Stay away from the very hard such as Oak, Hickory and Walnut and the very soft or resinous types such as Pine, Fir and Spruce.
Cord slip around spindle – Cord loose, spindle worn smooth and needs to be roughened, or applying too much pressure.
Cord rides up and down spindle – Keep arm straight and take long level strokes.
Spindle pops out of socket – Either or both of the fire board socket or handhold not deep enough.
Handhold smokes and heats up – Too much friction and needs lubricant or using different timbers and handhold too soft.
Drilling at angle – Adjust body and grip position.
Spindle wobbles – Hold straight and brace forearm and wrist.
Coal falls apart – Wood damp or pushing too hard.
Coal goes out immediately – If soft, powdery and light brown not drilling long and hard enough. If black pushing too hard.
Coal burns through tinder without flaming – Tinder packed too tightly.
Coal goes out in tinder – Tinder damp, Packing tinder to close and smothering coal, blowing with wrong force, holding too loosely for coal to catch in tinder, moisture from breathe putting out coal.
The drill flies out of the bow string – fixes;
a) the bearing block socket may not be deep enough
b) the pie hole in the board may be too close to the edge or not deep enough
c)your notch is too big – carve a new notch with more angle
d) the spindle is not kept vertical – brace it against your shin vertically
e) the pointy end of the spindle has dulled and should be resharpened
Wobbly Drill – fixes
a) brace your wrist against your vertical shin over the board
b) the pie hole in the board is too wide – burn in a new ball and socket joint
Smoke but no ember – fixes
a) the notch may be too narrow and not deep enough into the socket of your hearth board – widen and deepen the notch
b) moisture may be present in the hearth board – dry it in the sun or do slow bowing until you see smoke then rest. Repeat several times and test the board or find a new board
Smoke coming from the hand held socket – fixes
a) lube the socket
b) sharpen the pointy end and make sure it is not rubbing on the edge of the bearing block socket
Cant blow the ember to flame – fixes
a) may have marginal or damp tinder – place a fire extender such as char cloth, fungas, cotton wool, or 0000 steel wool in your tinder bundle with nthe ember on top
b) make sure the ember hasnt fallen out of the bundle
Squeaking:
Try changing the amount of pressure you are using, add some or reduce it as needed until the noise goes. Once things get warmed up things should get a lot smoother and the squeak should disappear. Sometimes it helps to roughen up the surface with a knife if you think that the drill is polished up (it will look glassy). A polished drill will reduce friction and not help you at all.
Cord keeps slipping:
You need to tighten the string, if you struggle with this you can tie the cord straight to the bow before its bent. Then when you twist the drill into the string, it won’t slip. Make sure the bow is as long as your arm, which will make it easier to drill with greater effect.
The cord keeps wearing out and breaking:
This might be because of a looser cord causing friction and heat which will melt it rather than wear through. Try with a tighter cord and if that doesn’t work, plait three bits together as this will also help grip the drill causing less slipping. Para cord works well but does not last forever, if you can get hold of a leather strap or thong then this is perfect.
No smoke:
If you aren’t getting any smoke, don’t stop bowing but instead add pressure and bow speed.
Not the right colour dust powder:
You want dust powder that is dark brown/black. If the powder is light brown in colour and dusty, then you are going too slow and not applying enough pressure. If the colour of the powder is too light but the consistency is correct, then you are going too slowly. Also, if the colour is right but the consistency is that of little rolls of fibre, you might be going too fast or not pressing down hard enough on the bearing block. If you are getting the right colour but the powder looks crusty, then you might be going too fast, pressing down too hard, or both.
Moving the bow is too difficult:
The drill may be too wide, so try lubricating the bearing block with Vaseline, or if you don’t have any at hand, facial grease or earwax would also do the trick. Make sure the drill is not binding on the edges of the bearing block hole and whittle the drill accordingly.
Aussie Fire Bow
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/~…/aussiefirebow
British/American timber list from Ray Mears
Aussie timber list from Aussie fire bow
Tom Brown
Survival Sherpa
Wildway Bushcraft
Dedicated to Marc who helped me with my first ordeal by fire bow.
I Guess I met Al through social media. We kept in touch over the years and when I had a chance to start traveling again I booked a training session through him. Id just crossed the border and lock downs commenced and most of my courses had to be cancelled. Als was one of the few I could still do. He had started doing walks for people with Disabilities. I explained that I had a low immune system and booked a private day walk tutorial in the New Castle area, through many of the bike ways and paths. We covered coastal foraging, natural navigation, tracking, bush tucker. I learnt a lot during the day and hope to get back to NSW next year to do more day walks with Al at different times of the year to see what plants are available to forage. He is now planning to teach natural navigation, bush knot work, wild teas as courses in 2022 and due to covid specializing in private tutorials. Its also worth checking out his etsy leather store “Howling Dingo” for traditional leather work. Al can be contacted through FB.
Im not calling this 101 because I know what Im doing but because its going to take me 101 trys at this to get it right. Im not even going to get into the processing side of it. Norforce has to make a 3 meter piece of cordage from natural fibres in order to pass the survival component of their training including gathering and processing the materials.
Processing depends on the type of material being used, whether bark, grasses or roots. This starts from gathering materials to separating fibers and drying to preshrink before even starting the production of cordage making.
I started weaving and rope making after a short course with Zimmi Forrest from Weaving Nature. I probably made the ugliest basket and rope there. The problem I had with the reverse twist method is that my hands would cramp up. So today Im going to try the leg roll method, for which there seems several ways of doing this.
When I start learning a new skill Im not happy till I own it. Which means I have to be able to do it front ways, back ways, sideways, eyes closed and under pressure. Cordage making Im not going to own for a very long time.
There are three ways of making natural cordage. 1)the reverse twist 2) leg roll and 3)finger roll.
Leg Roll Method
Finger roll method
https://bushcraftusa.com/forum/threads/a-different-method-of-making-cordage.196841/
2 Ply reverse Twist
Fire Beds
2 meter clearance
firelay
tinder
kindling
-pencil thickness
-thumb thickness
fuel
-wrist thickness
(always be prepared, when you see tinder grab it start rolling and mashing and put it in your pocket or a bag, you never know when youll find it again. When you think you have enough, collect another 20%)
6 ways fire is started
percussion
solar
electrical
compression
chemical
friction
Choosing a Campsite
up – widow makers
down – topography, comfort, habitats (insects), incline
all around – wind direction, game trails
Heat loss Gain Mechanisms
convection
conduction
radiation
perspiration
respiration
STOP
Stop
Think
Orientate
Plan
Stop: Unless dangerous, quit moving and sit down. Breathe. Take a drink of water. Eat a snack. Stay put , focus your thoughts. let the adrenaline wear off.
Think: Assess choices, available tools. Do you have your 10 essentials and survival gear
Observe: Take surroundings into account. Is it getting dark. Is the temperature dropping ,is weather getting bad
Plan: Based on previous actions make an overall plan. Then make some immediate decisions and do not procrastinate.
PLAN
Protection
Location
aquire
Navigation
which can be modified to MPLAN Medical being the first prioity
Medical: any injuries and or preexisting medical conditions requirements for medications.
Protection: clothing, shelter, fire
Location: scout area locate food water shelter options
Acquire: tools, food water
Navigation: source direction, find out where you are
Survival stresses
pain
cold
thirst
hunger
boredom
fatigue
heat
stress
Rule of 3’s
3 seconds without a weapon (modified to add this )
3 minutes without air
3 hours without shelter
3 days without water
3 weeks without food
Water Purification
turbidity
parasites
bacteria
viruses
chemical
Signalling / Rescue
comunication
contrast and movement
audio and visual
pasive and active methods
3 of anything
ground to air signals 1 x 6m
tinsel line
signal fires
heliagraph
Poison Indicators
1 furry stems
2 milky sap
3 red seeds
4 trumpet shaped fowers
5 palmate leaves (Palmately lobed describes a leaf that is divided into 3 or more distinct lobes, like the palm of your hand with outstretched fingers).
6 prickely fruit
7 opposite leaves
8 fungi (if you dont know what your doing)
9 pea pods (legumes)
10 waxy leaves
11 bright colours
This is what I carry in my backpack. I have a .7 AMK for my shoulder bag and a .9 PRO AMK for the car and for major trips I carry a remote/first responder bag in the back of my ute. But for something that is a balance between light weight and large enough to carry enough essentials I use an AMK .9 with a few additional items. When I imported mine from the US, many of the products were removed by customs. They are now sold in Australia but check the items before taking away. Items such as the syringe and medications were often removed. Medications in the original packaging also used the American names for panadiene (acetaminophen)etc. So be familiar with those before opening the pack to use in an emergency and find yourve got no idea what anything is, or change the contents as I have on newer products.
Ive found on many courses the instructors have first aid kits but are not allowed by law to administer drugs, that means no antihistamines or pain killers. This is something to be aware of, just because a kit is sitting on a table doesnt mean that you can have access to many of the items. Therefore its worth having your own.
Listed contents (Adventure Medical Kits .9 );
Bandage Materials
5 – Bandage, Adhesive, Fabric, 1″ x 3″
3 – Bandage, Adhesive, Fabric, Knuckle
1 – Bandage, Conforming Gauze, 3″
2 – Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 2″ x 2″, Pkg./2
3 – Dressing, Gauze, Sterile, 3″ x 3″, Pkg./2
2 – Dressing, Non-Adherent, Sterile, 3″ x 4″
Bleeding
1 – Gloves, Nitrile (Pair), Hand Wipe (Ive removed the originals and replaced with Heavy duty tactical versions x2, these are more stick resistant)
1 – Trauma Pad, 5″ x 9″
Blister / Burn
2 – Moleskin, Pre-Cut & Shaped (11 pieces)
Duct Tape
1 – Duct Tape, 2″ x 50″
Fracture / Sprain
1 – Bandage, Elastic with Velcro, 2″
Instrument
3 – Safety Pins
1 – Splinter Picker/Tick Remover Forceps
Medication (all of these were removed see lists below for replacements)
2 – After Bite Wipe
2 – Antihistamine (Diphenhydramine 25 mg)
2 – Aspirin (325 mg), Pkg./2 (Ive removed asprin altogether)
2 – Ibuprofen (200 mg), Pkg./2
2 – Acetaminophen (500 mg), Pkg./2
Wound Care
6 – Antiseptic Wipe
2 – Alcohol Swab
1 – Cotton Tip Applicator, Pkg./2
1 – Syringe, Irrigation, 10 cc, 18 Gauge Tip (removed but replaced with a 10ml .the smaller 10ml is better than a larger syringes to have more pressure when flushing eyes or wounds)
1 – Tape, 1″ x 10 Yards
1 – Skin Tac™ Topical Adhesive, Wipe
3 – Triple Antibiotic Ointment, Single Use ( a prescription is required in Australia for this product)
1 – Wound Closure Strips, 1/4″ x 4″, Pkg./10
I add extra steristrips, and another pair of nitrile gloves. A Trianular bandage, quickclot and a flat CPR mask. I usualy have a RATS Tourniquet handy aswell for arterial wounds and Snake bite bandage (See Below).10ml irrigation syringe,saline for eye and wound flushing. Super glue in miny squeeze tubes for wound closure. This is also a good place to store a mini sewing repair kit and mini roll of duct tape.
Medications I have are; antihistamines ( for allergies), Imodium (for diahrea), hydrolyte sachets (dehydration), ibuprofen (antiinflamatory), panadole 500mg (pain relief), aloe vera Gel (for burns). Sting-goes gel (for bites).
Ill mention antiseptic cream separately. Betadiene antiseptic, there are once ain two types ointment and cream. One is thicker than the other but the ointment has 10% betadiene as opposed to the cream having 5% concentration. This is the strongest I could purchase without a prescription. If i can find a small enough tube I will swap this out for tea tree ointment.
Snake bite bandages. These have come a long way in the last few years. Before a snake bite kit consisted of three bandages, a pen, splints etc costing up to $80 for a brand name, the pouch costing more than the contents. The newer version of the bandages are now 10meters long so you only need one bandage and not three. I would recommend you buying one of these apart from ease of only having one bandage costing $8 they have a rectangle shape printed on them hich turns to a square when the appropriate tension is reached, making it far easier to apply in a hurry. If yourve ever had a limb bandaged then you cant move it anyway, especially with 10 meters winding up and down. Always start a the base of the limb working your way up to the joint to immobilize the limb.
I should point out I am not a health care professional. Many years ago I was responding to emergencies and involved with search and rescue also being involved in the security industry, along with having to re-certify every few years with work place safety in aboriculture (Tree Surgery). I am writing this to give others ideas, not to tell anyone how to pack their kits. This is my hobby page nothing more. After 19 years on disability all my accreditation had run out and I am taking a lesson from my second martial art instructor. He had the entire class take a CPR training course. He was quite a joker and he was telling us a story where we were all about to laugh and it turned out that his child had drowned and no one had known CPR. This was his lesson to us to always be certified.
I have re-certified in my first Aid certificate, CPR and Remote First Aid last year and this year aiming for a four day course in Wilderness Medicine and then Tactical Medicine and a 7 day Expedition Medicine level qualifications next year.
Bleed Out Kit
The above BOO-BOO kit will treat most minor injuries but wont deal with a major bleed such as putting an axe though ones foot or a femoral bleed from a knife slip. I therefore carry the first aid kit in my backpack and a bleed out kit in my haversack to always have near me. This consists of an OLEAS pressure bandage, (similar to an Israeli bandage), nitrile gloves, A Soft-T wide tourniquet and a snake bite bandage, where everything is handy to stop a major bleed or bite. I like the soft-T wide for legs to provide greater surface area. I also carry a RATS Tourniquet in my pocket at all times. From a Military perspective, Four Limbs should equal four Tourniquets. Two is plenty for bushcraft I believe like the RATS as its easy to carry in a pocket and also good for children and arms. If the haversack is out of arms reach a tourniquet is on me at all times. I don’t carry a complete IFAK for bushcraft. There aren’t many injuries Id be expecting in the bush that would involve chest seals. A nasal esophageal tube may come in handy to keep airways open from an bite causing anaphylaxes shock but once again I wont carry one until I’ve fully re-qualified.
There are several other items worth adding. The first is glucose gel for diabetics in case of a hypo (Sugar low). The second is epinephrine for Anaphylaxis to treat severe allergic response, however this is very expensive even with a prescription. And the third item is a Wart remover with a non chemical base which freezes. For the removal of Ticks. Tick- Tox is the brand name designed specifically for tick removal.
So far this is what Ive been working on. However Im considering turning it into a Wilderness Medical kit based on the .9 Pro kit and making extra room in my pack..
https://www.wildearth.com.au/buy/tick-tox-35ml-single/TIC-TOX
There are many ways of learning. My Kali instructor explained that to teach a technique he had to demonstrate it, write it down, explain it verbally.Then you have to do it. Ive found being dyslexic I have to have all these things then I still have to research and make up cheat sheets to try and get the information to stick in my head. So this cheat sheet is not only to help me learn but Knowledge is there to share. The tree identification parts of explaining and demonstration were from Paul Kirkleys online plant and tree identification course and from Craig Caudills Outdoorcore course. This is my writing down part of me learning, then I still have to go out and find half of these tree species which is difficult in my current location unless I can find them in a botanic gardens.
VARK visual, aural/auditory, reading/writing, and kinesthetic
Visual (spacial) learners learn best by seeing
Auditory (aural) learners learn best by hearing
Reading/writing learners learn best by reading and writing
Kinesthetic (physical) learners learn best by moving and doing
Verbal learners who learn best by speaking
Logical (mathematical) learners who learn best by using logic and reasoning (these learners are typically mathematically inclined)
Social (interpersonal) learners who learn best in groups
Solitary (intrapersonal) learners who learn best alone
What you hear, you forget; what you see, you remember; what you do, you understand.
Spruces are stiff and sharp, Firs are flexible and friendly.
MAD BUCKING HORSE
Maple Ash Dogwood buckeye Horse Chestnut Leaf stems opposite one another everything else alternating
Pinus species have green foliage throughout the year. An exception is the eastern larch, or tamarack (Larix laricina)
White oaks have round tips, red oak have bristle tips. White Oak produce acorns every year, red Oak every second year.
Identifying Pines
The first steps in identifying pine trees is counting the number of needles per bundle. Then, notice the average length of the needles. Look at the type of bark the tree has. Pay attention to the size and shape of the pine cones on or beneath the tree. Observe the height and general shape of the tree. Finally, consider the location in which the tree is growing.
Needles grow in clusters of 2,3 and 5. Pines with clusters of 2 are red pines, pines with clusters of 3 are yellow pines. pines with clusters of 5 are white pines. Cones grow from a central stem and feel woody and thick, scales overlap.
Listed by the number of needles per bundle.
Two needles per bundle:
Pinus Sylvestris –Scots pine (needles 1-4 inches long)
Pinus clausa — Sand pine (needles 2 to 3 inches long)
Pinus contorta — Lodgepole pine (needles 1-1/2 to 3 inches long)
Pinus echinata — Shortleaf pine (bundles of either 2 or 3 needles on the same branch, needles 3 to 5 inches long, sometimes called “yellow pine”)
Pinus edulis — Pinyon pine (needles 1 to 2 inches long)
Pinus elliottii — Slash pine (3 needles, sometimes just 2 needles per bundle)
Pinus glabra Walt. — Spruce pine (needles 1-1/2 to 4 inches long)
Pinus jeffreyi — Jeffrey pine ( needles 5 to 11 inches long, usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 2)
Pinus muricata — Bishop pine (needles 4 to 6 inches long)
Pinus resinosa — Red pine (needles 4 to 6 inches long)
Pinus taeda — Loblolly pine (needles 6 to 9 inches long, usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 2)
Pinus virginiana — Virginia pine (needles 1-1/2 to 3 inches long)
Three needles per bundle:
Pinus attenuata — Knobcone pine (needles 3 to 7 inches long)
Pinus coulter — Coulter pine (needles 8 to 12 inches long)
Pinus echinata — Shortleaf pine (bundles of either 2 or 3 needles on the same branch, needles 3 to 5 inches long, sometimes called “yellow pine”)
Pinus elliottii — Slash pine (usually 3 needles, sometimes just 2 needles per bundle)
Pinus jeffreyi — Jeffrey pine, (needles 5 to 11 inches long, usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 2)
Pinus palustris — Longleaf pine (needles 8 to 18 inches long)
Pinus ponderosa — Ponderosa pine (needles 5 to 10 inches long, usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 2 or 4)
Pinus rigida — Pitch pine (needles 2-1/2 to 5 inches long)
Pinus serotina — Pond pine (usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 4)
Pinus taeda — Loblolly pine (needles 6 to 9 inches long, usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 2)
Four needles per bundle:
Pinus ponderosa — Ponderosa pine (needles 5 to 10 inches long, usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 2 or 4)
Pinus serotina — Pond pine (usually 3 needles per bundle, but sometimes 4)
Five needles per bundle:
Pinus aristata — Bristlecone pine (needles 1 to 1-1/2 inches long)
Pinus flexilis James — Limber pine (needles 2-1/2 to 4 inches long)
Pinus lambertiana — Sugar pine (needles 2 to 4 inches long)
Pinus monticola — Western white pine (needles 2 to 4 inches long)
Pinus strobiformis — Southwestern white pine (needles 2 to 3 inches long)
Pinus strobus — Eastern white pine (needles 3 to 5 inches long)
Pine
The most definitive feature of pines is that the needles occur in clusters of 2, 3 or 5. A cluster of pine needles is called a fascicle. One subgroup of pines are the hard pines and include Scotch pine (Pinus sylvestris), jack pine (P. banksiana), black pine (P. nigra), and red pine (P. resinousa) with 2 needles per fascicle and pitch pine (P. rigida) with 3 needles per fascicle. The fascicle of the hard pines is wrapped at the base with a paper-thin layer that persists for the life of the fascicle.
The only soft pine is eastern white pine (P. strobus). The soft pines have a fascicle sheath, but it is deciduous so it sloughs off during the first growing season of the fascicle. Pine cones have relatively few scales when compared to other genera of Pinaceae. All of the pines are intolerant or mid-tolerant of shade, so will typically require moderate to high levels of sunlight to survive.
Spruce
The distinguishing feature of all spruce is the presence of sterigmata. Sterigmata are post-like structures or projections on the stem to which the needles attach. These structures are most easily seen on sections of twigs closest to the main stem, after the needles have dropped. Visible to the naked eye at approximately 1 mm long. Spruce are also identified by have a four-sided needle, and needles that occur singly on the sterigmata (not clusters as do the pines). Spruce have a greater density of scales on the cone than do pine, and cone length helps differentiate among the species. From smallest to largest cones, native spruce include: black spruce (Picea mariana), red spruce (P. rubens), and white spruce (P. glauca). From other areas and common in yards are blue (P. pungens) and Norway (P. abies). The odor of spruce is commonly described as pungent to fetid. The spruces tend to be more tolerant of shade than the pines, though they grow well in sunlight.
Fir
Needles of fir are similar to spruce in their singular attachment, not clustered, to the twig. One distinguishing feature of fir is that the needles are attached directly to the twig, and when they drop they leave behind a slightly raised circular pad. Another feature of the genus, balsam fir, (Abies balsamea), is the 3 inch upright cone with deciduous scales. As the cones mature they are apparent in an upright or erect position on the branches, but when mature, the scales drop away leaving a naked cone stalk. The needles are flat, and typically two-ranked or attached on the sides of the twig as wings on a plane. The odor of firs is often that of citrus, though the odor of balsam has a less pronounced citric component that others species in the genus. Balsam fir up to a few inches in stem diameter will have resin blisters on the stem that contain a sticky and aromatic pitch. Balsam fir is tolerant of shade and often grows in the understory.
Hemlock
Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) will resemble balsam fir except for three distinguishing characteristics. First, the cones of hemlock are marble-sized, pendant, and the scales remain attached. Second, the foliage has a “piney” (actually “hemlocky”) odor, but not any hint of citrus. Third, the needles, especially on eastern hemlock, are two-ranked, but also include miniature-sized needles that are attached sporadically on the upper side of the twig. The central leader often droops, and a purplish zone separates the layers of bark.
larch
Eastern larch (Larix laricina) is distinctive by its deciduous foliage. Like black spruce it may be found growing in the saturated soils of bogs. The foliage may appear to be clustered on stubs, known as spur shoots. However, the clustered foliage is a result of a branch that does not extend; the foliage that would be otherwise arranged singly on the stem are compressed into a cluster on the spur. The cones are approximately the size of those on eastern hemlock, but are held erect. European larch (L. decidua) or Japanese larch (L. kaempferi), both have larger cones than the native species
Cedar
Northern white-cedar (Thuja occidentalis), as all members of the cedar family, are distinguished from the pine family by the modified needles. The modified needles are described as keeled, meaning the needle is flatten and folded to create an edge along the center of the needle. A written description that provides visualization is challenging; perhaps consider a dense strand of green waxy beads, melted and pressed flat. The cones are distinctive, and to some appear as miniature wooden roses. Northern white-cedar is common in bogs and on dry ground, and is tolerant of shade. It may grow in dense stands that provide winter cover for deer, and is browsed heavily by deer. The wood is light and the most rot resistant of the conifers. Atlantic white-cedar (Chamaecyparis thyoides) is restricted to coastal areas of the state.
Juniper
Junipers have two types of needle structures, one is linear and awl-like and the other is scale-like. Juvenile and vigorous shoots tend to have awl-like foliage. Eastern redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) will attain tree size and occurs in most counties of the eastern United States. Pasture juniper (J. communis) only occurs as a shrub, usually on infertile soils, and only has the awl-like foliage and in whorls of three. The berry-like cone of pasture juniper may be twice the size of that of eastern redcedar.
Fir Tree Identification
Fir trees (Abies spp.) have needles that attach to the branch by a base that looks like a tiny suction cup. The needles are soft and flattened, and usually have two white lines on the underside. Fir needles tend to point upwards, but this is not always the case.
One distinguishing feature of fir trees is that the cones do not hang downward, but stand up straight like candlesticks. Mature cones can be brown, blue, purple, or black in color, depending on the species.
Needles grow individually on branch as opposed to in clusters, needles are flexible and flat, cannot be rolled between fingers, needles have suction cup attachments with no woody projections, when needles are detached from branchcircular scar is left and feels smooth, cone scales overlap feel papery and flexible not woody. cones grow upward and often fall apart while still on tree.
Douglas-fir Tree Identification
Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga spp.) is not a true fir tree. Its Latin name means “false hemlock,” so it’s not a hemlock tree either, but its own genus all together. Pseudotsuga menziesii, are very common in western North America. There are also a few species in Asia.
The needles of Douglas-fir trees grow all the way around the branch, and the buds at the end of the branches are brown and cone shaped. These buds are one good way to identify Douglas-fir. The cones are brown and have a characteristic “mouse tail.”
Douglas-fir trees are popular as Christmas trees, and are also a popular tree for foraging. They have many benefits, and all parts of the tree have edible and medicinal uses, including the needles, bark, and resin.
Spruce Tree Identification
Spruce trees (Picea spp.) have four sided needles that attach to a small peg on the branch. The woody peg remains when the needle is removed. Most species of spruce trees have stiff and pointy needles that are sharp to the touch. The needles grow around the branch. Spruce cones hang downwards, and have thin scales and a smooth, somewhat flexible shape. New growth spruce tips form in the spring and are a popular foraged food item. They are tender and can be added to food or used to make spruce tip beer.
Needles grow individually on the branch as opposed to in clusters. needles are stiff and sharp, the cross section of the needles are either square or triangular and can be eaily rolled between the fingers, when needles are detached woody projections are left behind and the branch feels rough, cones grow from a central stem and feel papery and thin, scales overlap.
Hemlock Tree Identification
Hemlock trees (Tsuga spp.) have short and flat needles of varying length on the same branch. This is usually the best way to identify them. The underside of the needles of some hemlock species have two white lines. Hemlock bark is scaly and usually deeply grooved. The cones hang downward and vary in size.
Recognisable from drooped branches, needles grow along opposite of branch as oppsed to all around, and attached by woody pegs, needles are flat with two white perpendicular lines on the underside, needles are blunt on the tips, cones grow at tips of branches approx one inch in size, cone scales are thin and flexible.
Cedar Tree Identification
Cedar trees (Cedrus spp.), cedars have needles, not scales.Like true fir trees, true cedar cones grow upwards. Cedars are highly aromatic
Juniper Tree Identification
Juniper trees (Juniperus spp.) Junipers have needle or scale like leaves, depending on the species. Some have needles when young that turn to scales as they mature.
They have a distinctive aromatic “gin-like” scent and produce blue seed cones known as juniper berries.
Yew Tree Identification (Toxic)
The needles are flat, spirally arranged and have pale green or white bands on the underside.
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